Looking for a 130 or 120 thermostat..
#11
Ginger or Mary Ann?
Charter Member
Originally posted by cpqtim
Looks like this project is starting to come together! Do you still have the housing with t-stat? Maybe make me a package deal. I think with the lines cleared out and a dump valve of some sort that the gasket problem should be solved.
Looks like this project is starting to come together! Do you still have the housing with t-stat? Maybe make me a package deal. I think with the lines cleared out and a dump valve of some sort that the gasket problem should be solved.
Uh Tim, your scaring me.
The t-stat housing is bolted to the front of the intake you bought from me. You remove those 2 screws holding that shiny SS thing on with the 1" tubes protuding from it and WaLa. t-stat goes right there, in place of the brass restictor that is currently there.
I would go to -8an lines if you decide to try it. The 6-an tee is way to small.
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Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
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Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
#12
Registered
Thread Starter
Jerry, been working all day draining the brain so now I am officially on beer time. Had a hoot reading the cam post too! Now you are scarin me! The thermostat housing that is currently mounted on top of the intake has no bypass; if the t-stat is closed there is no place for the water to go. There is only one goes outa and one goes inta. When the stat is closed the water has to go somewhere, the only way it could get out would be via a dump valve (which would starve the exhaust until stat opened) or bypass going through the engine altogether. Look at the picture at bottom left of this link;
http://www.stainlessmarine.com/thermostat.html
This is for a 174 but they have one for a 250. When the stat is closed the water cannot exit the intake manifold so it is forced to go out the 1” bung on the crossover and into the bypass housing and then out to the exhaust. The bypass housing accepts flow from either the 1” bung or intake depending upon the state of the thermostat. When the stat is open the path from the 1” bung is closed so the water must go through the block. Did you ever try this arrangement? Pretty much the same as stock Merc only bass ackwards.
Are we saying the same thing? I must be missing something here. Without a bypass t-stat housing water pressure would be high. It must pass go either to the dump valve or through the holes drilled in the stat.
Are you going to be able to change your screen name when you get a new boat or will it be a Fountain as well? How bout US2? Sorta like a spy plane.
Tim T.
http://www.stainlessmarine.com/thermostat.html
This is for a 174 but they have one for a 250. When the stat is closed the water cannot exit the intake manifold so it is forced to go out the 1” bung on the crossover and into the bypass housing and then out to the exhaust. The bypass housing accepts flow from either the 1” bung or intake depending upon the state of the thermostat. When the stat is open the path from the 1” bung is closed so the water must go through the block. Did you ever try this arrangement? Pretty much the same as stock Merc only bass ackwards.
Are we saying the same thing? I must be missing something here. Without a bypass t-stat housing water pressure would be high. It must pass go either to the dump valve or through the holes drilled in the stat.
Are you going to be able to change your screen name when you get a new boat or will it be a Fountain as well? How bout US2? Sorta like a spy plane.
Tim T.
Last edited by BadDog; 02-18-2003 at 05:44 PM.
#13
32' SUNSATION
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cpqtim, here is a search on some previous post of how we routed the stat housing.
stat housing
and another one
stat housing
good luck
stat housing
and another one
stat housing
good luck