later

anyone have any experience in transom replacement in boats such as material used, best way to clamp etc.
later

Kent Perroux

Yes.

Just finished replacing my transom (18' Donzi classic) for a new drive.

On the Donzi, there was a 24" wide double layer plywood laminated to the transom glass. I cut the glass all along the sides then chipped out all the wood leaving the fiberglass.

Took the powersander to it with 60 grit to smooth it out and feathered the hole about 4" back. Took a piece of 3'4" plywood and glued formica to the face as a form. Waxed it, then scewed it to the transom. Sprayed gelcoat on the form then started laying glass and epoxy to fill the hole. Once set, sanded some more, then built a new transom out of 2 layers of 3/4" marine plywood.

Afer several in and outs, getting it to fit good, I made up a ton (about a gallon) mixed with high bond filler (forgot the exact name) from West Marine. Epoxy was West also, they make an easy kit. In a peanut-butter consistancy, I buttered both the inside boat transom and the side of the plywood that fit against the transom. Put it in place then screwed it tight from the back of the boat. Chit, need another beer.

If you put enough goop, you will have a mess of that stuff coming out the sides of the transom. Laquer thinner helps clean up the mess.

Once set, sanding then put some glass over it. If I can figure out how to post a picture here, I'll put some shots here.

Audiofn

Later I have seen it done two ways. I choose the later not the first way when I did my formula. The first way that I have seen it done on some of the smaller boats is to take the outside of the boat right off. This makes it so that you do not have to rip up the floor inside the boat, and you also do not have to try and grind and sand in the small space that is back there. Nothing as nasty as having to grind in a small space like that. So you cut off the back. Then clean out the wood, reglass the outside and then fair it out and gell coat or paint again.

The way I did it in my boat was take out the engines and drives. Then I cut out the inside of the transom and removed the wood. In my case the wood removal was a snap as it was so rotten I could just grab it and take it out. Then Grind it all down with 36 grit grinder. To get the wood to pull in thight I would drill holes into your wood were your drive bolt up and use them to pull the wood in tight. You can also push the wood back with pieces of wood against your bulkhead. Once that is done you can glass the inside. Once the inside is all set you cut out the openings and replace everything. The worst part is grinding. After that it is not so bad and it is not a hard job but very time consuming.

Hope that helps. If you have any other questions let me know.

Jon

Kent Perroux

Here are some pictures of my project.

Drive out, wood transom removed (yes, rotten stringer there also)




Big Volvo hole getting glassed in



New transom getting glassed in, along with much better stringers:



New transom, HD stringers (for some real power), and Interlux epoxy paint:

later

kent
looks great thanks for sharing the pictures with me,
Jon
thanks for you suggestions,

im looking at a couple project boats and one is going to need a transom and work on the bottom, along with everything else. just getting some ideas

thanks again
later

mcollinstn

Thank goodness you put some stringers in that boat.

The original ones looked like graham crackers.

Fast Shafts

I dont like to send anyone to another site, however, if you go to:
www.screamandfly.com
go under forums, and then to "Fibreglass and Composite" discussion, there are several stringer and transom replacement threads with photos.
Good luck
BOB G.

KAAMA

Oh yes-----transom replacement! I've done two of them so far with the two boats that I have owned and they are always a blast to do!