TRS to #3 Drives
#12
You need to swap the gimbals but the transom holes for the TRS and the #3 match. I can´t say for sure if this is the same for the different versions of the TRS drives though.
Cigaretteman
Cigaretteman
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Just a note on the SSM IIs. If you just swap a II for a TRS, your X dimension will be AT LEAST 2" too low. The lower on the II is actually longer than a TRS, although the II drive is intended to run much higher. You might even lose some speed with that swap.
Gary
Gary
#14
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TRS to SSM#'s
I am in the process of this swap from trs to SSM 3's right now on a 38 Scarab. After the drives are mounted and engines are aligned, I am removing the drives to pu extension t boxes on.
All of this requires the transom to be redone in order to move the drives up. The TRS has the same centerline dimension of the input shaft to the output shaft. Leaving them at the same vertical dimension does not require patching the transom but the 3 drive has a greater setback and will run deeper. thus not as effective.
Anyone looking to do this must know it is a major undertaking.
DOG
All of this requires the transom to be redone in order to move the drives up. The TRS has the same centerline dimension of the input shaft to the output shaft. Leaving them at the same vertical dimension does not require patching the transom but the 3 drive has a greater setback and will run deeper. thus not as effective.
Anyone looking to do this must know it is a major undertaking.
DOG
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DOG has it right. I've done it twice.
Even without a box, you'll want to raise the drive. The III is designed to run higher. Even with the added weight of the III gimbal and drive, I gained a couple mph with the increased drive height.
One other note. The internal steering on the TRS will not work on a III without fabricating parts. The III has it own internal ram, although I've never seen one.
Even if you have an add on external hydraulic steering, I'm not sure you can modify it to work with the III transom plate.
The best solution is full external hydraulic steering. Add that to the price of the swap.
Gary
Even without a box, you'll want to raise the drive. The III is designed to run higher. Even with the added weight of the III gimbal and drive, I gained a couple mph with the increased drive height.
One other note. The internal steering on the TRS will not work on a III without fabricating parts. The III has it own internal ram, although I've never seen one.
Even if you have an add on external hydraulic steering, I'm not sure you can modify it to work with the III transom plate.
The best solution is full external hydraulic steering. Add that to the price of the swap.
Gary
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I thought I saw aomewhere that the Konrad Marine 540 drive "bolts on" in place of a TRS. Is it just the transom bolt pettern that is the same or does the drive fit on the TRS gimble?
Anyone know?
-Greg
Anyone know?
-Greg
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Audiofn told me about this thread last night.
I swapped out my TRS bombs for 3A's (same deal as the 3s).
Here's what I had to do.
Strip engines, drives, gimbals and everything off the transom.
Since we raised the engines almost 6", we had to glass in the lower 4" of the old hole in the transom. Don't try & position the new gimbal to cover the old hole, the drive will be so low in the water you will probably loose several mph.
You will need speedmaster tail stocks, shift cable brackets, external steering, different tie bar & yokes, inner transom plates, gimbals and of coarse, the drives.
You will have to make new engine mounts (aluminum angle iron) because the engines will be moving back around 3" and up anywhere from 4-6".
Depending on the boat, you should have the prop shaft between 2 and 3" below the bottom of the boat. Any higher= tough getting it to plane. Any lower= alot of drag.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
I swapped out my TRS bombs for 3A's (same deal as the 3s).
Here's what I had to do.
Strip engines, drives, gimbals and everything off the transom.
Since we raised the engines almost 6", we had to glass in the lower 4" of the old hole in the transom. Don't try & position the new gimbal to cover the old hole, the drive will be so low in the water you will probably loose several mph.
You will need speedmaster tail stocks, shift cable brackets, external steering, different tie bar & yokes, inner transom plates, gimbals and of coarse, the drives.
You will have to make new engine mounts (aluminum angle iron) because the engines will be moving back around 3" and up anywhere from 4-6".
Depending on the boat, you should have the prop shaft between 2 and 3" below the bottom of the boat. Any higher= tough getting it to plane. Any lower= alot of drag.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
#18
Would it be better to go with some type newer/stronger bravo? As in better, I mean easier. As I understand now, you would need to redo (I think not entirely?) the transome?
Having the bravo eliminates trannys, and either way you would need to remount engine. With the trannys out and the impending set back of the motors, wouldn't you gain about the difference in mph, since engine weight has been pushed further back?
The #3A's can take bigger power, right? A lot bigger?
I also have 38' Scarab that weighs about 10000#.
Since I thinks I will be okay pushing 700 + thru TRS, I am asking for future reference. Brought up Bravo's also because my water pickups for trs are real bulky on prime running surface oof boat.
Thanks for further assistance
Having the bravo eliminates trannys, and either way you would need to remount engine. With the trannys out and the impending set back of the motors, wouldn't you gain about the difference in mph, since engine weight has been pushed further back?
The #3A's can take bigger power, right? A lot bigger?
I also have 38' Scarab that weighs about 10000#.
Since I thinks I will be okay pushing 700 + thru TRS, I am asking for future reference. Brought up Bravo's also because my water pickups for trs are real bulky on prime running surface oof boat.
Thanks for further assistance
#19
Oh and suggestions on supercharger that would be least punishment on TRS is encouraged. I always take a lot of time getting on plain so hull shots are not huge issues, but I would like the power if need be. I'm usually close enough to WOT so I am looking effecient cruising speed, throttle response from there to top end Thanks again !
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Dean Ferry
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