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HELP - Trim Pump Wiring

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Old 03-10-2003, 04:14 PM
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Unhappy HELP - Trim Pump Wiring

I'm re-wiring the bilge area and noticed that each pump (drive trim & K-planes) runs a hot wire from the pump all the way to the switch at the helm. This seems like overkill to me, but I want to make sure it doesn't serve a purpose.

Is it okay to "daisy chain" a 12 volt wire to the hot terminal on the Up/Down switches at the helm or does each pump's switch need to be fed off that specific pump like the factory harness?

BTW - I'm running a 10 gauge wire to power each pump, this is only for the solenoid control wiring.

Thanks, Jeff
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Old 03-10-2003, 10:02 PM
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If you blow a main or accessory fuse in the 12V dash circuit, then you have no trim. Could be an issue if you were about to blowover at WOT and the dash fuse pops.

Otherwise, there's no functional reason that you can't power the solenoids from any 12v source..
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Old 03-11-2003, 05:50 AM
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Thanks, Mike!

That's what I thought, but figured it's better to ask before I run the wiring.

BTW - From the sounds of your thread on Bravo drives it sounds like your putting some blowers on your Formula. I want to see it this year!

Jeff
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Old 03-11-2003, 06:56 AM
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I ran my own power up to the dash from the battery then back to the pump up and down. Works great. Is it over kill? Not really it was designed for boats with only one trim pump for the drive (single obviously) and it made it easier to wire. If you have a boat with 4 trim pumps like a lot of twin set ups (two for the drives, two for the tabs, 5 if you have a hydrolic hatch) then it is easier to run a wire up to the bat. for them all. My buddies boat has 6 trim pumps in it and wireing from the battery saves a LOT on wire and space.

Jon

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Old 03-11-2003, 08:27 AM
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Jeff,

Been collecting parts for the blower adventure for some time now. Originally just got the blower kits. Then it snowballed.

So far:
2 Procharger M3/504 Stage 2 kits.
2 Holley 4150HP 950 carbs
2 MSD billet distributors
2 Crane coils and Taylor wires
2 MSD digital 6 boxes (that I'm gonna s-can and use J&L's new marine box and a MSD 6M)
2 sets of knock sensors
CMI E-tops
Crane 731 cams, crower hyd/roll lifters, pushrods
billet timing sets w/torrington thrust brg & needle button
cast timing covers for thrust button
Crane gold rockers
Manley u-bolt girdles
Crane springs
Titanium 10 degree retainers
Manley inconel valves (exh and intake)
valve cover spacers & crate valve covers
Fluidamprs & timing marks
Imco +3 boxes
Maxx full hyd steering
2002 XR drives
AirGap intake

STILL NEED:
4 O2 sensors
pyrometer probes
gauges
Max-seal rings
Clevite H bearings
ARP rod bolts
ARP head studs
stainless engine fastener kit
gasket kits
Imco driveshafts & alignment tool
XR gimbal adaptor
props
drive top caps
showers
another Airgap intake

and prolly a zillion other things...
Who the heck knows when I'll actually do the transformation...
Been actually thinking lately that maybe I'd be better off selling the 311 as is, and dropping the goodies into a faster hull. Decisions, decisions...
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