Help-shift cable installation
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Ray
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Formula31,
I just had a friend by a new 33' Sunsport at the Cleveland Boat Show. It has the radar arch. He boats on Lake Erie. I forget what Yacht Club he belongs to...Char something I think.
I just had a friend by a new 33' Sunsport at the Cleveland Boat Show. It has the radar arch. He boats on Lake Erie. I forget what Yacht Club he belongs to...Char something I think.
Last edited by Luv-N-It; 03-28-2003 at 07:17 AM.
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I have done this a few times without any special tools. Once it was the lower cable. Once it was the cable between the control and the engine. (I found out after I already replaced the lower cable.....)
Take off the control cable from the shift plate on the engine. With the engine running, use your fingers to shift the drive in and out of gear. If it moves easily and feels similar both forwards and backwards it is most likely your control cable. If they feel different it is the lower cable between the engine and the drive. (It could also be a drive problem but try the cable first before you pay someone to tear into your drive.)
Here is how you can do this without the tools. Take the drive off and place the control so that the cable is all the way in forward or reverse. (Or measure both to be safe). It is easier to measure when the cable is all the way out (I forget which is forward and reverse) When you replace the cable just make sure that you adjust the shift plate so that the new cable sticks out the exact same amount when the control is in the same position. Pretty simple.
The biggest pain in the ass is the little bellows. Get a new one from Sierra, West Marine or Mercruiser and some bellows adhesive. They sometimes leak and it is worth replacing it while you are there. They are pretty cheap $10-15? The hard part is getting the hose clamp on the transom plate off. It is easiest with a tiny open end wrench of the correct size. I found one at Sears that was about 3 inches long with open end on one side and closed end on the other. It works perfectly. Depending on the angle that the hose clamp was put on it can take you a few minutes or 15 minutes. A midget is helpful if you have one available.
Just make sure you check the routing on the cable before you remove it. You don't want it to rub on the flywheel or anything hot (header).
Let me know if you have any trouble.
Steve
Take off the control cable from the shift plate on the engine. With the engine running, use your fingers to shift the drive in and out of gear. If it moves easily and feels similar both forwards and backwards it is most likely your control cable. If they feel different it is the lower cable between the engine and the drive. (It could also be a drive problem but try the cable first before you pay someone to tear into your drive.)
Here is how you can do this without the tools. Take the drive off and place the control so that the cable is all the way in forward or reverse. (Or measure both to be safe). It is easier to measure when the cable is all the way out (I forget which is forward and reverse) When you replace the cable just make sure that you adjust the shift plate so that the new cable sticks out the exact same amount when the control is in the same position. Pretty simple.
The biggest pain in the ass is the little bellows. Get a new one from Sierra, West Marine or Mercruiser and some bellows adhesive. They sometimes leak and it is worth replacing it while you are there. They are pretty cheap $10-15? The hard part is getting the hose clamp on the transom plate off. It is easiest with a tiny open end wrench of the correct size. I found one at Sears that was about 3 inches long with open end on one side and closed end on the other. It works perfectly. Depending on the angle that the hose clamp was put on it can take you a few minutes or 15 minutes. A midget is helpful if you have one available.
Just make sure you check the routing on the cable before you remove it. You don't want it to rub on the flywheel or anything hot (header).
Let me know if you have any trouble.
Steve
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