BadDog

I got the noisy lifter problem solved. Upon further inspection of the oil when draining it I think someone pissed in my crankcase. Way to much water to suspect that it was just condensation from running at idle on a hose for 20 minutes total on three occasions. Previous owner of intake (B&M 250 on top of it) had had several instances of the intake leaking. Granted the water was cold from the hose but I have a block pressure gage and it never went over 5psi. I think I will have a major leak when I get it wound up.

I have a friend who is an excellent machinist and he suggest we set the intake up in some sort of machine he has and check for warp flat cross twist etc. A little more than just using a straight edge on it. Can the intake be shaved just a red one to bring back to straight if need be or should I just replace the gasket and use a little more permatex Black this time?

On the subject of intake manifold torquing I have always gone around and around in the proper sequence until it does not draw down anymore. The person assisting in assembling my engine insisted that this was not the correct way to do it. He went three steps around and stopped. I have always gone around until it quit pulling down and never had a leak before. After a heat cycle I would go around again. I did not go around again this time until I saw the milkshake, probably too late at that point.


What would be the proper torque for a B&M intake and should the blower be set on top before torquing the intake or after? The blower is held on by four bolts that are 20lbs each. Is Permatex Black the best sealant for the intake and at what locations? Both sides and all the way around etc.?

Ahh, spring is in the air, wrenches are spinning and bank accounts sinking!

Tim T.

fstboater

If the heads or block are decked you need to mill the intake at the correct angle and use some GMS or good sealer at the water ports. Exhaust manifolds cam reversion cylinder heads and oil coolers can also do this. Good Luck

Mr. Demeanor

When re-torquing, you have to back the nut or bolt off and then torque it down to get it right. Ive seen many just put the wrench on it and try and turn it. Backing it off eliminates false reading from it binding.

bobby daniels

Just put a good bit in the corners of the lifter valley around the water holes ,yes we trim intakes all the time .,we like to tri the front and rear lip down alot so we can put a good bead of sealer in there instead of the factory gaskets /just eye ball it very good

US1 Fountain

Tim,
Only time that I ever had problems with that intake leaking was from high water pressure over 30psi blowing past the gaskets. 30# is what my gauge stops at, so no idea how much higher it really was. I also thought of a warped surface at 1st, so I checked it at work 3 yrs ago on a mill. It was flat and true. Only the water passages had the normal corrosion pitting. Never had any leaks once I eliminated the high pressure. I only used the Felpro perma seal gaskets and only RTV silicone on the rails, no gaskets there.

Now read the following very closely.

I always had to go around about 8-10x torqueing the bolts. Just 3x as you did, you will have some bolts only finger tight, if even that tight. I guarantee that. You HAVE to keep going around until all bolts are torqued evenly as you have always done yourself.
Just curious, after the problem and you rechecked the bolts, were they loose? It was fine all last yr up to when I removed it last fall. It has to be in the 3 step torque.

If you haven't pulled the intake off, I would change oil and retighten the bolts down, and KEEP going until they are tight. I never even rechecked torque after heating up and had no problems.

Please keep me informed.
Jerry

BadDog

Jerry,
Problem solved. I pulled the intake and used Ultra Copper Plus this time. No leaks. Torqued around until I got dizzy! I will re-torque once again as I have heat cycled it now. Took it out yesterday but it was too rough to get any testing done, 30 mph wind.

I could not get block temp over 100. Oil came up to 195 under light running. Oil T-stat will control it under hard running.

I have a T-stat in the intake with the 3 5/32 holes as per Stainless Marines recommendation. 3/8 bypass ( re-worked crossover to stock location of bypass ports). Temp took forever to come up at all. I think that is too many holes for very cold water. It is hard to believe that 3 holes of 5/32 inch can allow enough water to cool the engine but it must be.

Block pressure gage was climbing to 25 so I backed out at 3200 rpm. Brand new impeller so it may get a touch better with a little wear in. I did use the pop off valve you sent. It spewed a steady stream yet block pressure was still up. I would expect that to a degree as the T-stat is fully closed. I think the pop off needs a higher flow capacity. Perhaps at ¾ pop off would control the pressure better. Other tactic to control pressure is to bleed off a little more water after the pop off valve. I don’t want to do that as it will reduce the quantity available to the block if it needs it. The trick is to control the pressure and or flow prior to the block. I ordered a different bleed valve that is capable of 23 gpm at 20 psi. I think this will do the trick. When the t-stat opens less water will bleed off as there is less restriction in the system. One potential pitfall is the bypass from the crossover housing. If it passes too much water I think less will travel through the block as it has a slightly higher restriction. I think I am on the right track. Just need more parts and time.

I will install a new t-stat with 3 1/8 holes and up the size if need be. That should put some heat in it. I know the heat is in the heads because as soon as you shut it off it will heat soal to about 150 on the gage. Start it up and it sinks to 100.

Tim T.

US1 Fountain

Tim,
THANKS for the update. Now I can sleep. I just knew it had to be in the 1st install method. How was the carb operation? Can't wait until you can really get to try it out and post your results of Nickersons work. I also agree that the relief valve is to small. The Watt site has a 3/4" version also. To be honest, I don't think the one I sent you has enough spring pressure, but Teague said it was what they recommend. I think any significant amount of water flow is enough to blow it fully open.
Watch out using 3- 1/8" holes. Unless you can dump enough water, you will have higher WP until the stat can open. Are you using the 140*s ? Are you dumping over board or back in the exhaust? I think overboard is best as it will prevent any type of back flow from going on, but you still need to supply your headers with cooling water at all times. Keep a constant eye on your pressure and temp gauges. I had at times gone from 140 to over 220 in a matter of under 10 seconds while running hard with different setups. Tried to many, so don't recall which config that was. Welcome to my old world! Not to say my new one is starting off much better.
Jerry

BadDog

Jerry,

The Watts valve you sent is the 0 to 15 PSI model. The Watts valve in the 3/4 is not available in 0 to 15, just 50 to something. McMaster Carr supplies a valve in 1/2 and 3/4 that may flow more. It flows more than the Watts due to the design.

Current setup is seawater pump,
Oil Cooler,
Dump valve overboard on a "T",
3/8 bypass connected to horizontal portion of crossover going to a Y that connects to T-stat housing 1.5" left and right of center which feed the headers.

I think that the water pressure goes high because the t-stat is not open therefore not providing enough outlet for the water. The dump valve opens just a trickle and steadily builds to 2000 RPM where if fully opens. Pressure begins to climb because it cannot keep up with the flow. A larger capacity valve set a little higher would bleed water off until the t-stat opens at which point restriction in the system would fall and it should allow the dump valve to bleed off less.

Only fly in the ointment here is if the headers cannot flow enough water through them in which case the 3/8 bypass would be the primary route for remainder of water as the block/heads route is slightly higher resistance path. If this proves to be the case then I will close the 3/8 bypass down some. This should prove to be interesting!

I am using the 140 standard flow t-stat. Water is just too darn cold to let it open. The carb seems just fine and plugs looked good in the midrange. Have not spent much time running it so hard to tell yet.

Did you ever establish a best cold starting procedure? Without the choke it wants to stumble a bit. Pumping the carb would not do much as the fuel will not get past the rotors in the blower until is is spun. I have only started up 4 times while cold but I had good luck pulling the lanyard and spinning several second with a good pump or two then letting the spark in by flipping the lanyard switch. What worked best for you?

US1 Fountain

I always just gave 2 pumps then hit the key, it would start right up. Always had to idle high for a several minutes to get chit warmed up some before dropping back down to idle. Otherwise it would be a 2 handed race to drop the rpm, shift into gear and bring rpm back up before it died.