rws

I have a Late 80's Bravo One (serial#0C385988) that I want to Reseal is it possible to change the Input Shaft Seal without purchasing special Merc tools? Also does the lower have a load ring similar to a TRS and what is the procedure to tighten a new one if so?

Thanks
Rob

rws

TTT Come guys !!

Also can this drive be bolted to a new style HD gimble assy. It is going to be my spare drive.

formula31

Im trying to remember. On the input shaft I usually replace the nylock nut that holds the gear and bearings all together and you will need a very small torque wrench to set the bearing preload and the big wrench for the large nut. My lowers dont have the crush ring used in the later models, just lots of shims. You do need some tools to make sure the gear backlash is right. If your not changing bearings but just the seals you might be alright. My drives are 88's too. If you want me to scan some pics from my books, I can.

rws

Here is what I found out from a Mercruiser Tech.
Prop shaft Used Bearings, tighten spanner nut to 5-8 inch lbs rolling torque (new 8-12 inch lbs) lower separated from upper.Install new load ring part #67440t.

Input shaft used bearings 5 inch lbs rolling torque unit removed from drive held in socket-fixture . Use new nut part #11-97522 I had the wrench for the lower and I now have a Tool for the upper nut.

Does this sound about right?

Thank You
Rob

blue thunder

Just a little note on the bearing carrier for the propshaft on the 1988 bravo1. When I did the lower seals on one of my two 1988 bravo drives I discovered that the exact bearing carrier was not available. I went to four or five mercruiser parts distributors and came up dry. Even sent the old one to Marc at BAM and he was stumped. This 1988 carrier can be identified by the fact it does not have the drain plug in it. I can only locate carriers with the drain plug. Not sure if all 1988 bravos had this anomaly.

The difficult part is that the dimension to the shim pack and to the bearing race is different on the two makes of carriers. This necessitated me reverse engineering what shims I needed and where. I was successful and am on the second season with that lower. If you run into that I think I can lend a hand on a way to get the bearing carrier with the drain plug to work. But if it ain't leaking... don't screw with it!!

BT

formula31

Yes, exactly what BT said, I also have the same bearing carriers. Shiming and gear backlash checking is required if you change bearings.

rws

Is this what you are talking about

http://www.sterndrives.com/bulletins/mc/93/EN_010.PDF

It refers to changing to new style Carrier.

Tom Let Me know because I plane to change out the carrier,
It looks like I have to grind .200 shim down to .105 . and use a load ring which is the same part # as TRS .

Rob