Outdrive play??
06-30-2003, 09:40 AM
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
When I had a 211 Liberator, I could have the motor out in an hour. Needed a new coupler and had the entire job done in 3 hours (in the rain no less). Not a lot of wires, but make sure you mark them. I ended up pinching my trim sender wire when I put the motor back in, and that is a ***** to replace. Also, make sure you align the motor when you put it back in, otherwise you'll eat couplers. Well you have it out you may look into replaceing the back motor mount bushings. You'll need to have them pressed out, but they aren't expensive, and if original, they are probably due.
07-01-2003, 01:53 PM
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
It was painted and this is my first boat I am very good with my hands and tools I pulled the engine from my truck!!!!
plus my father just pullled the engine from his 28pc and put new heads on it he is helping me its not like I am doing it alone. he just isn't into the whole computer thing!!!!
plus my father just pullled the engine from his 28pc and put new heads on it he is helping me its not like I am doing it alone. he just isn't into the whole computer thing!!!!
07-01-2003, 02:25 PM
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
I didn't mean my comments in a disparaging way bowtie. Intelligence and mechanical ability is not the same as knowledge. I was mearly pointing out you didn't have much knowledge of outdrives, transom plates and steering systems in boats. This isn't meant to reflect on you negatively, everyone has to start somewhere. i am mearly saying, with your lack of knowledge on these systems, do you think it wise to fix it yourself, in the light of this could really hurt someone if you were to get it wrong? Not to mention you are opening yourself to a huge liability if someone gets hurt. At the least I would have someone qualified look at your work after you make the repairs and sign off on it. That would be what, maybe 1/2 hour labour at a boat shop?
07-01-2003, 03:05 PM
#15
MarineKinetics
Platinum Member
Iggy and Bowtie89,
There are three of us on this board with Formula 206s. I purchased my 1986 new and have had it ever since. BTW my alpha1 has developed some slight play in it so I am following this thread with interest. I only have 165 original hours but down the road this may be helpful. Great boat, cant wait to see how it runs with the new 383 in it.
Bob
There are three of us on this board with Formula 206s. I purchased my 1986 new and have had it ever since. BTW my alpha1 has developed some slight play in it so I am following this thread with interest. I only have 165 original hours but down the road this may be helpful. Great boat, cant wait to see how it runs with the new 383 in it.
Bob
07-02-2003, 12:59 PM
#17
MarineKinetics
Platinum Member
Bowtie,
The engine change is pretty much a direct bolt in. My stock engine is the original 1986 with a one piece rear seal but that was a transition year and that block was not set up for the hyd. roller which I am running. Instead of running a retro roller kit I found a 1988 four bolt and did all the necessary machine work and set up the short block with the 3.75 rotating assembly. That keeps the boat in the water until the engine change and the original short block will be crated for another day. Then all I have to do is swap out the intake,starter, etc and good to go. My biggest concern is the durability of the out drive with 100-120 additional HP. Drive shower is a very good idea. As far as top end goes im right at 59 mph stock and my target for the new setup is 70 mph. The hull is rock solid at speed so I think 70 should still be comfortable. I left at least 50 additional potential HP on the table in my build in favor of bulletproof reliability.
Hope this helps,
Bob
The engine change is pretty much a direct bolt in. My stock engine is the original 1986 with a one piece rear seal but that was a transition year and that block was not set up for the hyd. roller which I am running. Instead of running a retro roller kit I found a 1988 four bolt and did all the necessary machine work and set up the short block with the 3.75 rotating assembly. That keeps the boat in the water until the engine change and the original short block will be crated for another day. Then all I have to do is swap out the intake,starter, etc and good to go. My biggest concern is the durability of the out drive with 100-120 additional HP. Drive shower is a very good idea. As far as top end goes im right at 59 mph stock and my target for the new setup is 70 mph. The hull is rock solid at speed so I think 70 should still be comfortable. I left at least 50 additional potential HP on the table in my build in favor of bulletproof reliability.
Hope this helps,
Bob
07-07-2003, 03:02 PM
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
thats way too much slop and dangerous....if you wanna do it yourself do something first.....try to go somewhere and watch a pro do the job first....maybe he will even let you help him for free. Even if you gotta pay him to let you watch you should do it.....it will make it much easier for you to see the entire process done so that you understand the proper way to do the job...theres lots more involved in it that there is in pulling an engine or putting on a set of heads. But yes...with some common sense it can be done by an amatuer.....who knows...you might end up in a little "side business" of doing it for others afterwords. There are some special tools made for some of the process at merstuff.com. His name is Mike and he makes them himself. He also sells all the parts you will need. Hes a pretty busy guy though and would'nt have the time to explain the whole process to you however. Personally I think he ought to put out a "how to" book on it and sell it with the parts and tools all as a kit.......maybe you can find some pics and a good explanation of the process somewhere on the net...good luck
