Exhaust Headers Alignment
#1
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I have a problem I just built a very nice motor in my boat and noticed a problem, the exhaust header alignment. I know I should of thought about this problem prior to putting the motor in the boat, but that is another story.
Here is some history of the setup, it used to be a 502 with silent choice so the exhaust had the combo Y-pipe and corsa diverters, that setup worked fine. With this motor i decided on a stroker motor 540ci with the blower, etc...
Now my problem is that i all ready purchased the IMCO Powerflow headers and my alignment is off and I need some input on my options, more importantly someone who has been in this situation before.
I have posted some pictures of what it looks like in the boat, never mind the wires everywhere the whole boat is being re-wired with a new harness.
Here is some history of the setup, it used to be a 502 with silent choice so the exhaust had the combo Y-pipe and corsa diverters, that setup worked fine. With this motor i decided on a stroker motor 540ci with the blower, etc...
Now my problem is that i all ready purchased the IMCO Powerflow headers and my alignment is off and I need some input on my options, more importantly someone who has been in this situation before.
I have posted some pictures of what it looks like in the boat, never mind the wires everywhere the whole boat is being re-wired with a new harness.
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I don't feel so bad now, I just rebuilt my motor & "studded" the heads instead of bolt..damn studs & nuts stuk up high enough that I could't get my CMI headers mounted. I had to trim the exhaust flanges.
Would that Silicone Exhaust hose advertised here on OSO work?
Good luck
John
Would that Silicone Exhaust hose advertised here on OSO work?
Good luck
John
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Your simplest solution would be to have a local shop make some "offsets" from 4" stainless tubing that attach between the tip and pipe with short lengths of hose for joints (if you have enough length in the gap). The best loution is to return the tailpipes and have a set made that will line up.
-Greg
-Greg
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That's what I did in my Formula. I originally used regular rubber exhaust hose which burnt through in about 8 miles of 3000 rpm
.
It just couldn't handle the exhaust blowing against the side. Yet , believe it or not , I can easily touch the stainless pipe anytime
Probably because the metal conduct heat away from on central spot and the water going by keeps it cool
. Where as the rubber is more of an insulator and doesn't conduct hot or cold as well , and the heat was concentrated in one spot
![Frown](/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
It just couldn't handle the exhaust blowing against the side. Yet , believe it or not , I can easily touch the stainless pipe anytime
![Confused](/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
![Cool](/forums/images/smilies/cool.gif)
![Frown](/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Last edited by mopower; 07-01-2003 at 05:37 PM.
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I am concerned about heat generating in the custom bend if I go that way. Am i wrong to think that the bend will cause turbulents and kind of stifle the hot exhaust from exiting the header. Will this turbulent cause additional heat.
I appreciate all your input, but I plan on running this motor hard, and need to be sensitive to heat.
Thanks guys.
I appreciate all your input, but I plan on running this motor hard, and need to be sensitive to heat.
Thanks guys.
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How much restriction/turbulence an offset will cause is directly related to how sharp the turns are. If you have little length to work with and need sharp turns they will cause more than if you have a lot of length and can do gentle turns.
The easiest way I know to mock it up is to find some foam pipe insulation that is about the same OD as your exhaust, stuff a length of 1/16" piano wire lengthwise into the foam, and bend one up so you can look at it. The piano wire will make it hold the shape so you can take it to a pipe shop to duplicate.
What is the "fore-aft distance" of the gap compared to the "offset" required? You can't get much depth perception from the head-on photos.
-Greg
The easiest way I know to mock it up is to find some foam pipe insulation that is about the same OD as your exhaust, stuff a length of 1/16" piano wire lengthwise into the foam, and bend one up so you can look at it. The piano wire will make it hold the shape so you can take it to a pipe shop to duplicate.
What is the "fore-aft distance" of the gap compared to the "offset" required? You can't get much depth perception from the head-on photos.
-Greg
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I will be at the lake this Friday and will take some better pictures of the boat. Unfortunately the boat stays in the garage 5 hrs away from me till the weekend.
I will try and get some better pictures and postem this Friday.
I like the piano wire idea.
I will try and get some better pictures and postem this Friday.
I like the piano wire idea.
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You can barely see the edge of the boat in the upper right hand corner. I beileive i have about 10 to 12" of space to work with the end of the riser to the tip of the exhaust tip.