TRS lower hinge loose
07-25-2003, 03:13 PM
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TRS lower hinge loose
After last weeks poker run... I was cleaning her up last nite, noticed the lower hinge on my starboard drive has alot of play... How hard is it to repair??? does the entire gimble ring need to be rebuilt?? top is still tight.. got a coupla quotes.. best seems to be from a OSO member here in Town... Dockside service, rebuilt inner gimbal.(exchange my old) extra h/d stainless pins "BULLET PROOF"... PARTS & LABOR..$ 800.00... good deal????.... (thanks Andy..I'll call you)... Dave:
Can I still run it?? till I fix it??
Can I still run it?? till I fix it??
07-25-2003, 04:09 PM
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I just replaced the lower pin on one of my 1986 TRS due to the same issue. First, mine had the early spline upper pin with an allen screw in the middle to ensure it didn't back out. If you have that one, get a good recip. saw and start cutting it between the gimble ring and the upper housing as it's the only way your going to get it out while it's on the boat. That's why they probably changed to the square pin in later years; couldn't get the spline ones out after being in water a couple of years. Also, good luck finding one. Have them search the net and someone may have one on the shelf at about $105.00. I found two in different states and bought both of them.
You'll also need to purchase the drill kit to drill into the sides of the upper housing, sounds worse than it really is. This is so you can loosen the top nut on the spline inside the housing. They have plastic screw-in plugs that go in the holes when your done, you have to buy the threader too, believe it's 1-1/8".
Ok, once you get the top spline out the bottom is a cake walk. You'll need the replacement pin and if it had that much play, the bearing as well which you should change anyway while your there. Make sure you line up the grease hole when you put the bearing in.
Now that I've done one I would do the other however, knowing what I know now, if someone was willing to do the job back then for $800 bucks, I'd pay them just to save the headache of getting all the stuff together to do the job. $800.00 sounds like a deal to me. Hope this helps.
Al
You'll also need to purchase the drill kit to drill into the sides of the upper housing, sounds worse than it really is. This is so you can loosen the top nut on the spline inside the housing. They have plastic screw-in plugs that go in the holes when your done, you have to buy the threader too, believe it's 1-1/8".
Ok, once you get the top spline out the bottom is a cake walk. You'll need the replacement pin and if it had that much play, the bearing as well which you should change anyway while your there. Make sure you line up the grease hole when you put the bearing in.
Now that I've done one I would do the other however, knowing what I know now, if someone was willing to do the job back then for $800 bucks, I'd pay them just to save the headache of getting all the stuff together to do the job. $800.00 sounds like a deal to me. Hope this helps.
Al
07-25-2003, 04:19 PM
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By the way, I ran my for about 4 months after buying the boat and realizing it needed changing. It had about an 1" of play. I wouldn't go wave jumping with it and the longer you wait the more chance you have of wearing into the gimble ring which will get expensive, but yes I'd say you could run it and fix it during the off season.
Al
Al
