XR Upgrade?
08-19-2003, 07:03 PM
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XR Upgrade?
What is required to upgrade from a standard bravo 1 to an XR?
I know an XZ needs a new gimble bearing and spacers for the rams, but what about an XR?
Thanks,
Kirk
I know an XZ needs a new gimble bearing and spacers for the rams, but what about an XR?
Thanks,
Kirk
08-19-2003, 07:14 PM
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You might be better off with an XZ. Rod has a customer who runs a 37 Outer Limits with tripple 622 inch engines that make 740hp each and he's running XZ drives and hasn't had any problems thus far! If I remember correctly Rod told me he has had better results with the XZ's than the XR's. He posts on here now and then, but I haven't seen him lately---I'm sure he's quite busy with his marina business.
08-19-2003, 07:33 PM
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I too have heard that the XZ's are better than the XR gears.
Merlin540 , likes them . I don't remember why though. I know you will use more power with a straight cut gear than the helical.
Too late for me though I already upgraded my standard Bravo with a stainless tower and XR gears, I run a Simreck shower and a Billet top cap/cooler from Budah and use Redline shockproof in it.
I've only ran it in one poker run and and maybe a few hours of pleasure use. But in the poker run there was one stretch that was about 15 miles and the rpms were between 5000 and 5800 the whole time.
It's actually apart right now due to some twisted shafts (hit some rough water and knocked it out of gear and when we landed back into gear at around 2500-3000rpm
) but the gear set and bearings looked great.
Merlin540 , likes them . I don't remember why though. I know you will use more power with a straight cut gear than the helical.
Too late for me though I already upgraded my standard Bravo with a stainless tower and XR gears, I run a Simreck shower and a Billet top cap/cooler from Budah and use Redline shockproof in it.
I've only ran it in one poker run and and maybe a few hours of pleasure use. But in the poker run there was one stretch that was about 15 miles and the rpms were between 5000 and 5800 the whole time.
It's actually apart right now due to some twisted shafts (hit some rough water and knocked it out of gear and when we landed back into gear at around 2500-3000rpm
) but the gear set and bearings looked great.
08-20-2003, 06:18 AM
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I believe from the old Bravo 1 to any of the the new X series you need to change the Gimble bearing too. This is because the input shaft U joints are bigger.
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Ray
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08-20-2003, 08:23 AM
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BadDog,
The XZ's are an angle cut gear whereas the XR's are a straight cut gear. It seems that the angle cut gears wear less than straight cut gears----that's what I've been told but have no real proof of it, but I have also been told that the XZ's have been holding up better than the XR's. Even the people who run/maintain the XZ's are not sure why, and the only thing they can think of is because they believe it's way the gears are cut. This is what I have heard---it doesn't mean it's right.
Perhaps "Rod" can shed some light on it if he sees this post.
The XZ's are an angle cut gear whereas the XR's are a straight cut gear. It seems that the angle cut gears wear less than straight cut gears----that's what I've been told but have no real proof of it, but I have also been told that the XZ's have been holding up better than the XR's. Even the people who run/maintain the XZ's are not sure why, and the only thing they can think of is because they believe it's way the gears are cut. This is what I have heard---it doesn't mean it's right.
Perhaps "Rod" can shed some light on it if he sees this post.
08-20-2003, 10:43 AM
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Raypanic,
On a true Merc XR drive you are correct.
On a converted Bravo using XR/XZ gears you don't nessesarily have to use the larger input/u-joint assy. I run the stock Bravo input/u-joint assy so it is a direct bolt on.
On a true Merc XR drive you are correct.
On a converted Bravo using XR/XZ gears you don't nessesarily have to use the larger input/u-joint assy. I run the stock Bravo input/u-joint assy so it is a direct bolt on.
