Sea Strainer Mounting
09-29-2003, 09:59 PM
#12
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I had an occasion to use those ball valves on someone else's boat. He broke an air conditioning thru-hull fitting below the waterline and was taking on water at a tremendous rate, so when he made it into the harbor and into a slip I jumped into the engine room, shut off the seacocks after he shut down the engines, and removed an engine intake hose from the sea strainer. After laying the intake hose into the bilge I had him start that engine to use it as a bilge pump. It kept the boat afloat until the Coast Guard arrived with their pumps. And by the way, I kept a guy at the engine room hatch (this was a triple-cabin Chris-Craft) just in case I needed a hand getting out of there.
01-14-2004, 06:21 PM
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I started reviewing this post because I just bought a set of strainers for my Cafe.
Dumb question #1 (they were used - no instructions): Mine have two ports on the bottom, and one on the top. I'm assuming the two on the bottom are "in" and the one on the top is "out" - correct?
Dumb question #2: Do i need to add a thru-hull water pickup, or will they be ok feeding from my Bravos?
Dumb question #1 (they were used - no instructions): Mine have two ports on the bottom, and one on the top. I'm assuming the two on the bottom are "in" and the one on the top is "out" - correct?
Dumb question #2: Do i need to add a thru-hull water pickup, or will they be ok feeding from my Bravos?
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Steve Gresham
'03 Donzi 33ZX
Steve Gresham
'03 Donzi 33ZX
01-16-2004, 07:14 PM
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I think as long as you aren't mounting the strainer more than a few inches above the sea pump you won't have any problems... whether the strainer is above or below the water line... Rubber vane pumps are self priming and don't need water for them to begin pumping... only to lubricate them upon startup... most of the pumps hold a small amount of water within their bodies to wet the rubber when you start the engine. My boat had ball valves between the hull mounted pick ups and the strainers... just in case the strainer had to be opened. Even if the strainer is above the water line I would have a ball valve in case something in the water system broke on one engine.... you could close the valve and then motor back on the other engine without filling the boat with water. Hull mounted pick-ups sit facing the water stream and will scoop water up and generate a small amount of "head" when the boat is moving forward.
01-16-2004, 09:39 PM
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Ray - How ae the fittings in your lids holding up? That was a great idea.
The valve can also be used to shut off the hose to thru-hulls if you have a flush fitting like raypanic does or if you winterize with a fitting like this or have a tee inline.
Double clamp all the hoses like raypanic did.
The valve can also be used to shut off the hose to thru-hulls if you have a flush fitting like raypanic does or if you winterize with a fitting like this or have a tee inline.
Double clamp all the hoses like raypanic did.
02-06-2004, 12:38 PM
#20
O.K. I have a 24' Formula 242ls and use a Groco strainer. it is mounted to a stringer. I thru bolted it with bronze hardware and sealed bolts with 3m 5200 sealer.
Also have 1 1/4 " thru hull with a ball valve. This system is excellent and would recommend to everyone. The only thing I'd do different is put a bigger thru hull in so I can get more water when I put in a bigger motor. It's not cheap at all to buy a bronze seawater pump and groco strainer and a strainer on the bottom of the boat, a flush kit and hardware and the pump brackets and the pulley, but that's the reason why they don't come on boats from the factory. It's good insurance against frying a motor. Also a temp alarm for $30 is a great deal. I run a slightly modified 365 mag motor with a 140deg t-stat and it never goes over 140deg. I have to contend with seaweed and salt water. Maybe elsewhere you can do without all this hassle. I would do this to a smalblock cabin cruiser too. Both my boats are setup like this, My smaller boat does not have the inside strainer and has not had a problem since setting it up my way !
I leave the ball valve open when unattended. It's a very solid system. I'd never trust a pvc thru hull fitting either but thats just me. Inadequate cooling is probably the most overlooked area that cause premature engine failure. (people feel hey! it's a boat, it's surrounded by water of course it's getting plenty of water) 
BBB
Also have 1 1/4 " thru hull with a ball valve. This system is excellent and would recommend to everyone. The only thing I'd do different is put a bigger thru hull in so I can get more water when I put in a bigger motor. It's not cheap at all to buy a bronze seawater pump and groco strainer and a strainer on the bottom of the boat, a flush kit and hardware and the pump brackets and the pulley, but that's the reason why they don't come on boats from the factory. It's good insurance against frying a motor. Also a temp alarm for $30 is a great deal. I run a slightly modified 365 mag motor with a 140deg t-stat and it never goes over 140deg. I have to contend with seaweed and salt water. Maybe elsewhere you can do without all this hassle. I would do this to a smalblock cabin cruiser too. Both my boats are setup like this, My smaller boat does not have the inside strainer and has not had a problem since setting it up my way !
I leave the ball valve open when unattended. It's a very solid system. I'd never trust a pvc thru hull fitting either but thats just me. Inadequate cooling is probably the most overlooked area that cause premature engine failure. (people feel hey! it's a boat, it's surrounded by water of course it's getting plenty of water) BBB
