Bravo 1 removal and pressure testing
#22
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Formula31;
I put only about 7 p.s.i. on the pressure test. Then pulled about 10 inches of vacuum. Those are the numbers I was told by the guys where I store the boat. I can say that the drive passed both tests, and the oil was clear all year.
I put only about 7 p.s.i. on the pressure test. Then pulled about 10 inches of vacuum. Those are the numbers I was told by the guys where I store the boat. I can say that the drive passed both tests, and the oil was clear all year.
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Cool thats what I needed to know. Thanks. We never used to do vacuum tests but it makes sense. My leak (if I even have one) is so small I may not find it but will try. When you pull the vacuum, did you then shut the valve and see if the gauge dropped? How long did you wait?
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Formula 31;
Thats exactly what I did. I pulled a vacuum and just left the pump and guage in place. I left it on for hours and it held vacuum and pressure.
Thats exactly what I did. I pulled a vacuum and just left the pump and guage in place. I left it on for hours and it held vacuum and pressure.
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Formula 31.. Thanks, I'll have a close look at the seal and bushing (9 and 10).
Checckmate... thanks for the numbers. Formula 31 and I were getting worried that no one would ever fill us in on the pressures!
BT
Checckmate... thanks for the numbers. Formula 31 and I were getting worried that no one would ever fill us in on the pressures!
BT
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Formula31 and BT;
If it leaks on the pressure test, you should have no problem finding the leak. Being that the drive is full of oil when you apply pressure, you should be able to see oil seeping out from somewhere. On the other hand, if the drive fails a vacuum test, I don't know how to determine which seal is at fault. Personally, I would just get an entire upper and lower seal kit to be sure. I feel it's better to do the work now in the off season, than have problems in the already toooooo short North East Summer.
If it leaks on the pressure test, you should have no problem finding the leak. Being that the drive is full of oil when you apply pressure, you should be able to see oil seeping out from somewhere. On the other hand, if the drive fails a vacuum test, I don't know how to determine which seal is at fault. Personally, I would just get an entire upper and lower seal kit to be sure. I feel it's better to do the work now in the off season, than have problems in the already toooooo short North East Summer.
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I totally agree. Just trying to figure out a way of not having to pull the lower carrier. I imagine its gonna be fun with 14 yr old drives. And, I barely had a whisper of water evident in my reservoir. Ill check every possibility before I tackle the prop shaft seals. It makes my skin crawl to lay the torch on that aluminum torpedo.
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Formula31;
I wouldn't heat that lower unit to remove the nut. I have gotten stubborn ones out by cutting it in half with an air sawzall. Then just break the nut out and get a new one. Of course, be careful NOT to cut the treads in the lower unit. Good Luck
I wouldn't heat that lower unit to remove the nut. I have gotten stubborn ones out by cutting it in half with an air sawzall. Then just break the nut out and get a new one. Of course, be careful NOT to cut the treads in the lower unit. Good Luck
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