Bravo 1 removal and pressure testing
01-21-2002, 06:27 PM
#31
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Checkmate,
Do you by chance have the part numbers for the upper and lower seal kits? I'd like to go through the whole thing, but haven't found a pre packaged kit.
BT
Do you by chance have the part numbers for the upper and lower seal kits? I'd like to go through the whole thing, but haven't found a pre packaged kit.
BT
01-21-2002, 08:21 PM
#32
I hate the winter!!
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BT,
I don't have the part #'s off hand. I usually just go to my Merc. Dealer and pick up the seals. I am sure you can get them from mercruiserparts.com if you wanted too.
I don't have the part #'s off hand. I usually just go to my Merc. Dealer and pick up the seals. I am sure you can get them from mercruiserparts.com if you wanted too.
02-10-2002, 06:38 PM
#33
Ginger or Mary Ann?
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I'm also having a problem that I noticed last winter. The cavity where the shift linkage apparently is getting some water in it. Thats the lower section if you remove the rear cap. Oil is clean w/ no water signs & I just pressure and vaccum checked today as previosly explained.(BTW, Thanks for the numbers) Passed the test. Last winter I replaced all the external o-rings in hopes of fixing it, but Noooooo. Linkage and cavity was again rusty and the grease I used last winter there is now a glob. The o-ring was replaced that goes between the bell housing and outdrive too. Everything looks fine and checks flat at the mating/ o-ring sealing surfaces. The only place I see for water getting in is at the cable where it goes thru the bell housing and uses a sealing washer, item #21, behind the cable nut. Does this sound likely?
http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show_...ND+SHIFT+CABLE
Thanks,
Jerry
[ 02-10-2002: Message edited by: US1 Fountain ]
http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show_...ND+SHIFT+CABLE
Thanks,
Jerry
[ 02-10-2002: Message edited by: US1 Fountain ]
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Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
02-11-2002, 05:51 PM
#34
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Jerry... That sounds like the shift cable bellows to me. What did you use to do the pressure part of your outdrive check? What level of vacuum did you use for the vacuum portion, and how long did you let it sit before deciding all was good?
BT
[ 02-11-2002: Message edited by: blue thunder ]
BT
[ 02-11-2002: Message edited by: blue thunder ]
02-11-2002, 07:27 PM
#35
Ginger or Mary Ann?
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bt,
I used a hand held vaccum/pressure pump that I just bought from Pep Boys. Vacccum @ 11", pressure @ 12 #. 15 min and no drop. This reaffirms it to be a waterproof outdrive from the absence of water in the oil and leaks.
A torn bellows would allow water into the engine compartment, which I don't have. Another option would be a hole in the shift cable housing in between the bellows and the bell housing, which I don't see either with it removed from the bell housing now. So that leaves either a bad o-ring seal between the outdrive and the bellhousing(twice now, so coinsidence?) or it has to be seeping past the hard plastic seal that seals the cable at the bell housing. RTV at those 2 places should do the trick since there is a no pressure in this cavity.
I'm open for thoughts incase I'm misunderstanding something.
Thanks
Jerry
[ 02-11-2002: Message edited by: US1 Fountain ]
I used a hand held vaccum/pressure pump that I just bought from Pep Boys. Vacccum @ 11", pressure @ 12 #. 15 min and no drop. This reaffirms it to be a waterproof outdrive from the absence of water in the oil and leaks.
A torn bellows would allow water into the engine compartment, which I don't have. Another option would be a hole in the shift cable housing in between the bellows and the bell housing, which I don't see either with it removed from the bell housing now. So that leaves either a bad o-ring seal between the outdrive and the bellhousing(twice now, so coinsidence?) or it has to be seeping past the hard plastic seal that seals the cable at the bell housing. RTV at those 2 places should do the trick since there is a no pressure in this cavity.
I'm open for thoughts incase I'm misunderstanding something.
Thanks
Jerry
[ 02-11-2002: Message edited by: US1 Fountain ]
__________________
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
02-11-2002, 09:25 PM
#36
US1 Sounds like youve got a handle on it. My old merc manula even calls for sealer on those shift cable threads where they attach to the bell housing. I have also had leaks through the back cover. Make sure the cover is flat and the mating surface on the housing is flat. With only those 3 bolts holding it, I think some of them warp when the bolts are torqued. I have notice my old 88's are twice as think as the newer back covers. Probably a cost reducion on merc's part. Let us know what you find.
Tom
Tom
02-11-2002, 10:02 PM
#37
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Tom, did you ever pick up another set of heads? BTW, I pressure test mine dry then use a squirt bottle with a soap and water mixture and spray around drive. Also, to remove a frozen ring nut you can drill the face of it with a 1/4" bit in various locations then break the nut apart with a chisel. I have used this method on several drives and haven't damaged threads yet. Remember to check your bearing preload when you reinstall the carrier, too.
02-12-2002, 08:22 AM
#38
Hi Maxx, No, not yet. But at the rate the money flow is going, Im not gonna do the second engine this year. Between all the projects and doing one engine right, no money left. Doing the full rebuilds on the transom assemblies hurt me more than I expected. Havent done the drive test yet but soon. Thanks for the tip, Ive also been soaking it with PB Blast for a while.
02-18-2002, 04:58 PM
#39
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All right fellas, I need help again!
I pressure and vacuum test my outdrive (bravo 1) after replacing the o rings in the top plate and back plate. The pressure test went well. With 10-15psi and a bottle with soapy water, no leaks found. When I did the vacuum test, I couldn't hold vacuum. I could get it up to about 7 in. hg and then it would slowly fall to under say 3 in hg. I thought maybe I should be doing the test with a fill of gear lube so I did that and re tested. This time it went to about 9 in hg. then started to drop. Dropped at about the same rate, but would hold for 10 seconds or so before starting it descent. Sounds like the propeller seal to me, but I don't really know. Any advise would be majorly appreciated!!!
BT
I pressure and vacuum test my outdrive (bravo 1) after replacing the o rings in the top plate and back plate. The pressure test went well. With 10-15psi and a bottle with soapy water, no leaks found. When I did the vacuum test, I couldn't hold vacuum. I could get it up to about 7 in. hg and then it would slowly fall to under say 3 in hg. I thought maybe I should be doing the test with a fill of gear lube so I did that and re tested. This time it went to about 9 in hg. then started to drop. Dropped at about the same rate, but would hold for 10 seconds or so before starting it descent. Sounds like the propeller seal to me, but I don't really know. Any advise would be majorly appreciated!!!
BT
