Bravo 1 removal and pressure testing
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Is it normal for gear lube to come out from around where the cable enters the upper gear housing? I am getting crappy looking light green oil coming out at that location with the drive removed and still full of oil. I'm draining it down now and the lube that came out the normal drain hole initially looked normal, than started looking somewhat emulsified like the oil coming out the shift cable area. I think I must have a bad seal, or maybe just condesation. How does one check for bad seals in an outdrive. There has never been any indication when the boat is in the water of oil leaking out. I have changed this lube several times since July and never liked the look of the oil. On every other outdrive I've owned the old gear oil always came out looking pretty much like when I put it in. Any advise would be greatly appreciated!
BT
BT
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I also had a quarter inch of funny looking oil in the bottom of my reservour bottle this fall. Drive oil looked Ok. Question, It almost has to be the propshaft seals right? If the covers and screws are all tight and sealed, water cant get in through the drive shaft area if the bellows is ok, and the shift cable area is also dry too if the bellows is OK, right? I hate changing propshaft seals but all the other possible areas of entry checked out ok. Anybody know if there is a kit/tool to do vacuum and pressure checks on a bravo 1?
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Mines a 1988 bravo one. I don't have the remote reservoir or valve assemble. The oil comes out around what is actually the cable clamp/shifter link. There is an o ring that seals this opening from sea water and it looks good.
BT
BT
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Same year as mine. Remove the rear cover. The O-ring must have failed between the gear section and the shift linkage, or the shifter shaft lower seal could have failed. If so, make sure to check the shaft and bushings. Look at the pictures in mercruiserparts.com if you dont have a manual. Youll see what I mean. But, thats not where the water came from unless the rear cover o-ring is so bad it let it in there. If so, be happy. Thats the easiest to fix.
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Bt;
No oil is supposed to leak from the drive when it is removed, except for a little drop or 2 from where the gear lube monitor check ball is. In your case, you don't have that so it should be 100% dry.
I rigged up my car radiator pressurizer to do a pressure check. Then I rigged up a vacuum pump to do a vacuum test. To run a pressure check, it is easier to do when the drive is full of oil. For vacuum test the drive must be empty. You must do both tests to be sure the drive will hold oil in and also to hold water out.
No oil is supposed to leak from the drive when it is removed, except for a little drop or 2 from where the gear lube monitor check ball is. In your case, you don't have that so it should be 100% dry.
I rigged up my car radiator pressurizer to do a pressure check. Then I rigged up a vacuum pump to do a vacuum test. To run a pressure check, it is easier to do when the drive is full of oil. For vacuum test the drive must be empty. You must do both tests to be sure the drive will hold oil in and also to hold water out.