Raypanic

I just had my boat re-powered and when I did I had the engine builder install Sea strainers. He chose Gil. I see he did not install a shut off valve in the incoming line. I am assuming if I am in the water and I pop off the cover to remove debris my engine compartment would flood. (They are mounted below the water line.) Am I wrong? I believe I have seen shut off valves on some boats mounted on the transom above the transom plate (drive). Is it typical to mount them here? I am concerned about water having to flow up above the motor and then back down. I have attached a link to a picture to show you what I have.

I would like to mout the valves in-line right in front of the strainers but I dont think I can get in there without pulling an engine.

http://208.49.62.180/ray/WhippleInst..._0575_JPG.html
http://208.49.62.180/ray/WhippleInst..._0576_JPG.html

(Actually two pict's)

Thanks for your help.

Ray

[ 01-15-2002: Message edited by: Raypanic ]

bob

Didn't look at pics but if strainers are below water line then you probably want a valve between strainer and external pickup.

cardshark 388

I have the same strainers that you have on my Hustler Slingshot. If you pull the top of your straniners when you are in the water you are going to get water in your bilge. I have found from exiperence that the bilge pumps handle the incoming water with no problems. Shut off valves would be nice but mine did not have them when I got the boat from the factory. One thing I would highly recommend would be to contact Gil and order some extra O rings for the lids. I did as a safety thing. The people at Gil told me some wild tales about people who watched their O rings float away while the bilge continues to fill with water. Cardshark PS make sure your the bolt that holds the covers on are easy to get on and off. Mine were the old design and were a SOB to get started once they were removed. When I complained to Gil about them they sent me new ones no problem. They were trying to get rid of the old stock.

Cord

Consider adding a 3-way selector valve. Have one leg run down to the bilge and end. That way if you ever have the need to pump the bilge fast, you can throw the valve and empty it almost instantly.

Raypanic

Cord, you mean suck the bilge water into the engine and out the back? Interesting idea!

Cardshark, I'll get extra o-rings - thanks

Ray

Cord

Yes, that the idea. It could make that critical difference. Remember-you'll proably only use it once, but afterward, you'll be glad you had it. Look in McMaster Carr, they have a bunch in the correct size.

Scott

O.K. Cord you set yourself wide open on this one

Ray, Ask him why he HIGHLY recomends the Y-valve!!!

Scott ROTFLMAO

Cord

Yea, yea. You see, I cracked my hull this last year. Not too bad, certainly nothing that the bilge pump couldn't handle. But the thing wouldn't work (turned out the crack had split the pump right in half). Well, bailing wasn't cutting it, and if we hadn't been with a bunch of other members we wouldn't of made it to shore. I had always thought of adding the 3-way valve, but never got around to it. Sure was wishing for it that day. My new boat is definetly going to have one.

rbtnt

Anyone know where you can get a 3 way valve with one position being straight through for maximum flow? This would work great in front of the sea strainer as an emergency bilge pump and a connection for flushing engine and winterizing.

Cord

I was wondering the same thing so I did some digging. Actually it took alot of digging. Several hours worth.

Ok here's the deal:
McMaster has several three way valves. However, only one of them offers the straight through flow that you desire. PN 9779k11 would get you a fully ported cross-bolted bronze ball valve. The kicker is that it's $316.13!

If you really want the straight through flow, you may end up with two 1" ball valves and a T block.

The following valves do not offer the straight through flow. Instead the flow is more like a T, with the common outlet on the bottom. The common outlet would face the water pump.

PN 4373k43 would get you a 1" Bronze ball valve for $23.54 but it's not fully ported.

If you upsize for the valve the next one is PN 4373k45. That is a 1-1/2" Bronze ball valve for $43.44.

Another option is a fiberglass reinforce polyproplene ball valve. The PN is 97745k56 for the 1" size. The fully ported valve is $32.50. I should note that this valve is cross bolted so it can be disassembled.

Barbed fittings would be needed for all the valves. Now I measured the inlet and outlet of the raw water pump and the id is between 7/8" and 13/16". This would be a little smaller than the id of a 3/4" pipe thread fitting. So a 1" pt fitting wouldn't be restrictive (the id of the barb fitting is smaller than the female inlet). Now, I don't have a barb fitting big enough to check, but the id of the feed hose is 1-1/4". Just measure the barb and make sure it's a tick smaller or the same size. As a final parting note, don't forget to use a wire reinforced suction hose that won't collapse.