Leathl_WS6

Ok heres the deal. This is my first engine pull on a boat. Its a 454 mag attached to a bravo drive. I have all of the wiring exhaust and everything in my way taken off. It's ready to come out.

My main question is how and where do I split the drive from the motor. Also at what location should I unbolt the motor mounts. The one large nut or the 3 on the side of the block? Which is easier?

Thanks Rob

mopower

First the outdrive itself must be removed. Then there are 2 bolts going through tabs in the bell housing. They thread into the transom assy(vertically). This will release the back of the engine. Front mounts are usually easier by removing the single big nut on each side as opposed to the three small bolts. This way , going back , you can target the hole over the stud , instead of trying to find the three little holes that you can't see anyway .

formulaF302

Yup...just like mopower said....make sure you don't change the position of the lower nut on the studs and your allignment might even be ok after you're done if its ok now. We're assuming you know that the shift lever has to be in forward to remove the drive from the transom assy. Sometimes its a good idea to check you allignment before pulling the motor....and then turn the motor over 180 degrees to check it again. At least that way if your coupler is tired out you will know about it before you re-install the motor and have to take it out the hard way later. You should buy an alligement tool anyhow to do it yourself every year....and you gotta do it after putting the motor in...so buy it now, do the check...and save yourself some grief later on just IN CASE you have an problem and don't know it. Just my two cents worth from experience......

jaroot

bravo does not get removed in gear.. only the alpha (which is placed in forward).. leave bravo in neutral.. get your small screwdrive and when you pull her to the edge of the studs reach in and open the jaws and lift the cable ball out...

mopower

But they usually come apart themselves

220BR

I've always pulled the mounts from the boat, rather than the mounts from the engine. I've always checked alignment on reinstall, but never had to adjust it.

mopower

I did that on my last boat , but then I could get to the lag bolts that went into the stringer. My present one the mounts are bolted to metal brackets on the stringer and I can't get to the nuts on the bottom.
I guess it depends on the boat as to whats easier

BadDog

If you can get to the lag bolts you are better off pulling them rather than undoing any of the nuts. Trace the outline of the mount with a permanent black marker then cover it with tape after the engine is out. This will give you a visual when you go to set the motor back in. The tape is to prevent the marks from coming of when you pressure wash your bilge.

Measure your lag bolts and if you have room go 1" longer, use Life Caulk in the lag holes at reassembly. Don't be alarmed if the lag bolts look like they are in there cockeyed, many manufactures put them in that way on purpose so the engine cannot lift straight out if the stringers were to have rotted.

Be sure to inspect or replace the fiber washers and springs at the tabs on the bell housing.

This would be an excellent time to replace your bilge pump and put a drain hose on the bottom of your oil pan.

East Coast B

I like the idea of just pulling the one large bolt on the front two engine mounts. That way when you put the engine back in, it's the same way you pulled it out... That is if it's already properly aligned. So two rear bolts on enginer to houseing and two large nuts on front motor mounts. When pulling the outdrive, just pull it off an inch, then release the shift cable with a small driver like stated above. You'll get a little drive oil leak at this point, once you pull it back further, oil will stop leaking. Be sure to baby the drive shaft when you pull the drive off so it doesn't drop. You'll have to pull the two nuts(under the plastic caps) off the power trim hydraulics first as well in addition to the six I believe nuts that hold the drive on. Before pulling the engine, be sure you have enough clearance to get it out. As I lifted mine up, the engine water pump bumped against the rear sofa seat, I had to remove the pump before I pulled the motor... just a thought to make sure you have clearance. Then my biggest advice is to not skimp on the engine rebuild, else you might be pulling it again!!! While you have it out, if your running stock manifolds.... your at a good point to work on them if needed.... They rust out quickly and are a lot of weight, changing the exhaust to a good aftermarket can reduce your weight and add some power and reduce headaches.... adding an oil change line to the oil pan is a great idea if like me your unable to reach the drain plug when the engine is in the boat.... I never minded pulling the motor, as for rebuilding, I leave that to someone else that knows what the hell they are doing!!! Spend your money once so you have no regrets. Good luck and enjoy!!!

Leathl_WS6

Thanks everyone. Great information.

Actually the motor only has 50 hours on it and runs great. I'm pulling it to clean up the engine bay and re paint. Its a mess in there. Wirining is pretty bad as well so I'm gonna fix all of that as well. It also seems there is a oil leak somewhere so I'm going to re gasket.

A few of questions though:

So once the drive is off there are ony 4 bolts that hold the engine in?
How do I check the alignment?
How do I tell if the coupler is bad?

Thanks Rob