Changing drums to disc braks???
10-18-2003, 05:59 AM
#1
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Lehigh Valley, Pennsylvania
Posts: 1,567
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Changing drums to disc braks???
My brother wants to change the drum brakes on his loadrite to disc brakes. Anyone know a good place to buy from? What brand? I have kodiak disc brakes on my trailer and have been happy with them.
As for installation, just removing all the drum, put on the new disc assemblies, maybe a few short pieces of flexible hose and and a backup solonoid at the actuator seems all there should be. Anything I missed?
Anyone done this? What kind of price are we looking at for two axles?
As for installation, just removing all the drum, put on the new disc assemblies, maybe a few short pieces of flexible hose and and a backup solonoid at the actuator seems all there should be. Anything I missed?
Anyone done this? What kind of price are we looking at for two axles?
10-18-2003, 08:10 AM
#2
Registered
10-18-2003, 08:12 AM
#3
Registered
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Lake Norman, N.C.
Posts: 721
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Drum to Disc
I changed out my brakes last year on my tri-axle trailer to disc. I bought my kits from Northern Tools (formerly Northern Hydralic) and it was a direct bolt on. No special tools, no drilling. Hubs come complete.
The only thing I had to do was on my surge brake actuator, I had to take a pick and punch a hole in the end of the master cylinder to release pressure. This was all in the instructions that came with the disc
I believe the kits are about $90 each.
The only thing I had to do was on my surge brake actuator, I had to take a pick and punch a hole in the end of the master cylinder to release pressure. This was all in the instructions that came with the disc
I believe the kits are about $90 each.
10-19-2003, 08:46 PM
#5
Ginger or Mary Ann?
Charter Member
What ever you do, add the deluxe back up solonoid, not the cheaper basic one. Best extra $20 ever spent. Disc brakes will not budge in reverse if there is any pressure still in the line when put into reverse.
__________________
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
10-19-2003, 10:12 PM
#6
Toxic FORMULA
Platinum Member
The trick is...you cannot stop and immediately backup.
You have to come to a stop , release the brakes and role forward just enough to release the trailer brakes , then put it in reverse and close the solenoid with no pressure in the system.
You wouldn't believe the people I've seem spinning their wheels in the stone parking lot at the marina I launch at while trying to back up with discs
Did mine two years ago and aside from the solenoid going bad , probably a month after I did it , they have been money well spent
Less labor intensive than drums with fewer moving parts and stop like hell
.
You have to come to a stop , release the brakes and role forward just enough to release the trailer brakes , then put it in reverse and close the solenoid with no pressure in the system.
You wouldn't believe the people I've seem spinning their wheels in the stone parking lot at the marina I launch at while trying to back up with discs
Did mine two years ago and aside from the solenoid going bad , probably a month after I did it , they have been money well spent
Less labor intensive than drums with fewer moving parts and stop like hell
.
10-20-2003, 05:39 AM
#7
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Lehigh Valley, Pennsylvania
Posts: 1,567
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
To combat the backup issue.. What I did on mine is not hook the solonoid 12v line to my backup lights. I ran the 12v line to a switch in my cab. Now when I come up the street which is up hill, I hit the switch on. Now I know the coupler isn't putting pressure on the brakes. I turn around and come back down hill in order to back in my drive way. Prior to the switch I would have to pull forward down hill quick to release pressure on actuator and then hit reverse quick... what a pain... You could run a double 12 line also, one from the backup lights and one to the cab switch. I did that, but found the cab switch worked just fine...
10-20-2003, 07:10 AM
#9
Ginger or Mary Ann?
Charter Member
From the Champion website in post #2.
It is only $60. You will need to drill and tap a 1/8 NPT in the back of the master cyl for the return line. I just changed mine over last week to the deluxe. Got tired of using a jumper wire to lock out the cheaper solonoid every time I backed into my garage, which is up hill. And to think, this was a $200 option on my Eagle when I ordered it this spring and they installed the CHEAP one.
It is only $60. You will need to drill and tap a 1/8 NPT in the back of the master cyl for the return line. I just changed mine over last week to the deluxe. Got tired of using a jumper wire to lock out the cheaper solonoid every time I backed into my garage, which is up hill. And to think, this was a $200 option on my Eagle when I ordered it this spring and they installed the CHEAP one.
__________________
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
10-20-2003, 09:11 PM
#10
Charter Member
Charter Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Central, Ohio USA
Posts: 1,074
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you have the big round trailer plug with 6 or 7 pins on your truck, the center pin is connected to the backup lights. You can then buy the adapter to convert from the round plug to a flat 5 pin plug that most trailers use that have disc brakes.
