Cigarette 30

Still no luck,

Anyone that could recommend a mechanic or shop that has performed this retro. on a cigarette, it would be GREATLY appreciated. No problem compensating for the consultation, I am just at a loss.

(How about it Trouty, you have answered before)

Cigarette 30

Trouty,

Even in the short time on the site, I knew you would not let us down. Have a great Holiday!

Wally

The anti-siphon valves are most times lcated on the top of the tank where the fuel lines exit and go off towards the engines. Its usually in that fitting right near the sender where the fuel lines get attached to. Its basicly a stainless steel ball bearing with a light weight spring inside a houseing to keep the opening closed when fuel is not being sucked through. More then likely when changing over to an electric style valve you will need to either take out that stainless ball bearing from the housing its in or take the housing off all together and connect the electric valve as close as possible to the fuel tank. the whole purpose of the anti-siphon valve is to keep fuel from spilling out in the event a fuel line breaks or something. The last thing you want is a bilge full of fuel!!

robyw1, yes it does have a return line..check out #30 on that schematic drawing above. The return line comes from the pressure regulator and goes back to the filter. Its easier that way then running a sepperate line all the way back to the tank like a car would have.


Cigarette 30, on that wireing harness, i'm not sure on what it looks like but if there are relays involved you want to try and make the connection to the relays as close to the fuel pump as you can. The purpose of the relays would be to keep power supply runs as short as possible if it draws a high current load. Again i dont know what kind of relay system it has but i can give you a basic Bosch automotive type realy hookup scenario. The pins labled 85 and 86 are the coil wires. One wire will go to ground and the other will go to a power source that will be in this case switched hot when the key is turned on. Most boats dont have a "hot during crank" type setup so all you will need to find is a wire that turns hot when you turn the key to the run position. The coil wires on the relay dont matter which one gets ground or hot. The pin labled 30 usually gets the Hot feed wire. This is teh power supply feed that will be giving your pump the juice it need to run. Make sure where ever you get the power from it has enough to handle the pump and what ever acc you are stealing juice from! Best bet in a retro fit situation is to run a new power line from the batt or a distribution block and make sure you have a fuse on it!! The only two other pins that are left are 87 and 87a, i get confused as to which does what when i dont have a relay infront of me to look at but one is always connected to pin 30 when the relay is not active and the other gets the juice from pin 30 when the relay is switched. the pin that gets the feed to the fuel pump would be the one that is switched hot when the relay is turned on. And thats the basics of wiring a relay up. Most times theres a small diagram on the side of the relay showing how it works. The "spagetti noodle" type drawing is the symbol for the coil, the rest is easy to figure out.

Oh and you can also get fancy with stuff now since you have a electric fuel pump. You can get yourself an oil pressure sensor that will pass ground as long as it see a set pressure.....you wire the ground supply of the relay to this sensor and this way if you should ever loose oil pressure the fuel pump will be shut off but i'm not sure how much teh mechanical pump will continue to supply though.

Hope that helped and didnt confuse you If you need any help or have more questions PM or email me

Wally

woops! must have skipped over ApachePete's reply that there is a return line

Cigarette 30

Wally and All,

Thanks, we are getting there. Does anyone know if there is in fact this anti siphon valve installed on a 2000 Cigarette. In the 30', very limited space, the valves are easy to see, but VERY difficult to work on. Obviously to loosen factory fuel fittings if not needed, would be quite an error.

The harness instructions read "connect the new wiring harness to the fuel pump" then " connect the double plug end of the wiring harness to the fuel pump".

Now, they omitted the important point, you now have two fuel pumps, which goes to which pump.

This "kit" by the way is the Mercury 862264A2 Fuel Pump Kit.

You guys have a GREAT HOLIDAY, and Trouty, from a brother, stay safe!

Wally

Well i dont know for a fact but i guess an easy way to check if you do have it would be to disconnect the line and try to blow through it back into the tank.......the ball bearing should seal and not let the fuel go back in.....

As for the harness situation you have now......can you maybe post a pic of it? If you have one relay powering both pumps then it could be a double pole/double throw. or they just molded two relays into one housing.....either way there should be a schematic on the side of the realy showing you what the inside of the relay does. If not then maybe if you look under the relay at the way the wires go into it you can see two sepperate groups and figure it out. A pic would help us to see what is going on here

Cigarette 30

Wally,

Your awesome. I as speak, I have someone coming to upgrade and educate me a little more on computers (Boats I love, Computers - well.....) such as scanning, and how to register for full OSO membership, private messaging, best server etc. So, I will get the information on, in the meantime, I am getting a better understanding of the Merc. kit. Also, I follow you on your latest recommendation with the fuel line.

ApachePete,

You following all this, are you going to proceed with the full kit?

Thanks again guys.