Intial Dart 540, AFR 315CNC Dyno Results
#13
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Park Ridge, IL/ Sheridan Beach, IN
Posts: 326
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I considered and debated between the 731 and 741 for awhile, but I thought the 741's profile best fit the flow curve of the AFR heads. The additional cubes of the 540 vs. the 454-502's the cams are designed for pulls the curves down to lower rpms. The 731 would have increased the low end torque compared to the 741, at the expense of some hp at the upper end of my rpm range, so I thought the 741 would be easier on the drives out of the hole, while giving me a couple mph at the top end.
In either case, they're both pretty mild cams.
In either case, they're both pretty mild cams.
#15
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Park Ridge, IL/ Sheridan Beach, IN
Posts: 326
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Cobra marty,
I built 2 540's, and a rough tally is about $10k each from pan to carb. Everything was brand new. I could have saved a little by using different brand parts, but I stuck with what has always worked for me. Some of the parts like the Crower cranks and rods are probably overkill, and I didn't really need Del West valves, or titanium retainers and locks, but they're nice to have stuff.
If I did anything differently, I probably would have went with a little more compression over the 9:1, but I'm really kinda pushing the TRS drives as it is. If I weren't drive limited, my combination would have been alot different, but I built these motors for my specific application and limitations.
Fred, Thanks. I really can't wait to get her in the water now. The Velvet Drives as getting hopped up to Huber 925 specs and I should have everything back together within a month. Now I gotta figure out how I'm gonna raise the engine hatches. My wife already told me scoops are a "no go". She's claimed the sunpads for herself (which I had reupholstered, along with the surround pad - sans the pleats.) I'm gonna get the cockpit redone before Spring, at least that's my plan.
I'm looking forward to hearing what kinda power you're putting in the Sutphen. If I remember correctly, you bought blocks several weeks ago?
I built 2 540's, and a rough tally is about $10k each from pan to carb. Everything was brand new. I could have saved a little by using different brand parts, but I stuck with what has always worked for me. Some of the parts like the Crower cranks and rods are probably overkill, and I didn't really need Del West valves, or titanium retainers and locks, but they're nice to have stuff.
If I did anything differently, I probably would have went with a little more compression over the 9:1, but I'm really kinda pushing the TRS drives as it is. If I weren't drive limited, my combination would have been alot different, but I built these motors for my specific application and limitations.
Fred, Thanks. I really can't wait to get her in the water now. The Velvet Drives as getting hopped up to Huber 925 specs and I should have everything back together within a month. Now I gotta figure out how I'm gonna raise the engine hatches. My wife already told me scoops are a "no go". She's claimed the sunpads for herself (which I had reupholstered, along with the surround pad - sans the pleats.) I'm gonna get the cockpit redone before Spring, at least that's my plan.
I'm looking forward to hearing what kinda power you're putting in the Sutphen. If I remember correctly, you bought blocks several weeks ago?
#18
Registered
![Default](/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hey Monty:
It is smart to look first at what your drives will handle. There are so many options for making more power that TRS or Bravo drives can't handle. BUT...it still bothers me that the engines we build can make so much more power if only the drive would take it.
When you do decide to add a blower, I believe WPM sells the Konrad drive that will bolt up to the TRS gimbel housing and take 800 HP. Does anyone else remember this in the boat mags from a few years back?
Of course with a blower that engine would make 1000 HP, so you're back to the same problem.
It is smart to look first at what your drives will handle. There are so many options for making more power that TRS or Bravo drives can't handle. BUT...it still bothers me that the engines we build can make so much more power if only the drive would take it.
When you do decide to add a blower, I believe WPM sells the Konrad drive that will bolt up to the TRS gimbel housing and take 800 HP. Does anyone else remember this in the boat mags from a few years back?
Of course with a blower that engine would make 1000 HP, so you're back to the same problem.
![Big Grin](/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#19
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Park Ridge, IL/ Sheridan Beach, IN
Posts: 326
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Tpmcat,
I'm not familair with the Konrad drive, got any links so I can get some more info. Any idea how much $$.
I seriously considered going with a surface drive system, such as Pulsedrive, but besides the cost, the transom rework and moving the engines around bothers me. Not to mention the fact that the hull was never designed for a surface drive. Other than couple of minor things, the hull is in very good shape and I'd hate to mess with it.
Even going to 3A's seems like more work than the boat is worth. I just can't see spending 60%+ of what I paid for the boat on new drives. I'd be better off just getting a different boat.
I'm not familair with the Konrad drive, got any links so I can get some more info. Any idea how much $$.
I seriously considered going with a surface drive system, such as Pulsedrive, but besides the cost, the transom rework and moving the engines around bothers me. Not to mention the fact that the hull was never designed for a surface drive. Other than couple of minor things, the hull is in very good shape and I'd hate to mess with it.
Even going to 3A's seems like more work than the boat is worth. I just can't see spending 60%+ of what I paid for the boat on new drives. I'd be better off just getting a different boat.
#20
Registered
![Default](/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I think it was from WPM, which I think stands for Warlock Performance Marine which I think is owned by Tom Stolarz who used to own Warlock Boats. The Konrad drive was developed originally for diesel powered workboats so very capable as far as torque. WPM was actually selling it with an extension box that contained a transmission. This is a few years back so my memory is fuzzy. But someone on this board will know.