454 Engine rebuild
12-30-2003, 11:11 PM
#11
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
No rotators. Replace with hardened spacer.
3 angle job.
454 with 240@050 will be a bit soft on the bottom. Might want to plan to keep a separate prop for towing.
If you use the stock center rise exhaust, then please take GREAT CARE to keep the mating surfaces between the risers and the manifolds perfectly flat and use fresh gaskets with copperkote.
have fun
3 angle job.
454 with 240@050 will be a bit soft on the bottom. Might want to plan to keep a separate prop for towing.
If you use the stock center rise exhaust, then please take GREAT CARE to keep the mating surfaces between the risers and the manifolds perfectly flat and use fresh gaskets with copperkote.
have fun
12-31-2003, 01:29 AM
#12
Hey JW. I been hanging out here for a while and consider my self a pretty good carport mechanic. PLEASE listen to Crazyhorse Formula31 and Dyno, they are all GREAT guys and I bet would e-mail you an exact parts list. Doug Herberts is a great place to get parts but some of the guys around here can get stuff even cheaper. I dont mean to tell you what to do or want to stunt your creativity but on this 330hp up grade PLEASE build as they say and you will love it. Thanks Rag's
01-01-2004, 07:06 AM
#15
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JW454, my information says the 781 head chamber volume is 110 cc. You need to verify this before you buy your pistons! If you can say for sure that they've never had the chambers worked on and haven't been milled a bunch of times you're probably safe, but it's so easy to check the chamber volume, as well as a learning experience, that it's worth it.
The L2399F+30 will give you 9.5 to 1 c/r with the 110cc chamber.
Here's another point to ponder; I'm freshening up my supercharged 509's and am having the deck surface of the blocks refinished. .015 was removed from the deck just to get it parallel with the crank bores, which will put the pistons .005 below the deck surface. In my opinion this is a machining operation that's well worth the money.
The L2399F+30 will give you 9.5 to 1 c/r with the 110cc chamber.
Here's another point to ponder; I'm freshening up my supercharged 509's and am having the deck surface of the blocks refinished. .015 was removed from the deck just to get it parallel with the crank bores, which will put the pistons .005 below the deck surface. In my opinion this is a machining operation that's well worth the money.
01-01-2004, 10:38 PM
#16
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Hey CrazyHorse, How do you check the combustion chamber volume. Formula31 says he runs the same heads and they are 119cc. My machine shop and you say that they are 110cc. Just dont want to get wrong pistons. Also any ideas for a good marine carb? I currenly run an Edelbrock 750 on my truck 454. I have had my share of Holley double pumpers, and they run stronger than the Edelbrock, but far less trustworthy. Dont want any seeping float bowls, stuck floats, or defective needle and seats. Boat 454 has Q-JET, probably 850 or 895cfm. Cant see useing that carb with new engine. Cant afford more than 450.00-500.00. How many cfm do you think it will take to spin engine up to 4800-5000rpm? Thanks. JW 454.
01-02-2004, 12:16 AM
#18
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
Put a spark plug in your head. Lay it on its back so that the gasket surface is level in both horizontal planes.
Find a piece of plate glass and drill a 1/8 dia hole in it with a cheapo carbide masonry bit in a fast drill. Stick masking tape on both sides of the glass where you are going to drill, and lay it on a piece of hardwood so your bit will not break thru too quickly.
Smear vaseline on the head's gasket surface and press the glass onto it. You should "see" the vaseline seal the piece of glass. Use a syringe with cc measurements to add rubbing alcohol until it fills up to the glass. Look thru the glass and tp it soall air bubbles come out.
However much you added is your chamber cc.
Can't use water, as it has too much surface tension. Everclear will work as well as rubbing alcohol PLUS you can drink it when you are done (mix it with a can of concentrated OJ if you aren't feeling particularly manly).
Find a piece of plate glass and drill a 1/8 dia hole in it with a cheapo carbide masonry bit in a fast drill. Stick masking tape on both sides of the glass where you are going to drill, and lay it on a piece of hardwood so your bit will not break thru too quickly.
Smear vaseline on the head's gasket surface and press the glass onto it. You should "see" the vaseline seal the piece of glass. Use a syringe with cc measurements to add rubbing alcohol until it fills up to the glass. Look thru the glass and tp it soall air bubbles come out.
However much you added is your chamber cc.
Can't use water, as it has too much surface tension. Everclear will work as well as rubbing alcohol PLUS you can drink it when you are done (mix it with a can of concentrated OJ if you aren't feeling particularly manly).
01-02-2004, 07:26 AM
#19
http://www.mortec.com/bbc.htm
Everyone of these 781's Ive ever cc'ed came out very close to 119. I typically use brake fluid or transmision fluid.
That Lunati cam will be better than the Edel rpm. If you do use it, I would time it 4 degrees advanced so that #1 intake c/l is at 108.
Everyone of these 781's Ive ever cc'ed came out very close to 119. I typically use brake fluid or transmision fluid.
That Lunati cam will be better than the Edel rpm. If you do use it, I would time it 4 degrees advanced so that #1 intake c/l is at 108.
01-02-2004, 07:32 AM
#20
Oh, they can be angle milled to get them down to 110 cc's. Just be sure a good shop does it and then re-cuts the intake side too. If you do angle mill, its a good idea to have a spare done right them so youll have it when you need it.
