More TRS Trans questions
#1
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OK so I'm running the Mercury transmissions.
Easy enough to rebuild.
They run standard Ford clutch plates (ford part # C9AZ-7B164-A)
5 discs with the 4 metal plates in between.
Currently running the Ford semi-metalic plates.
Only problem is if you overpower them once, they glaze. Then they want to keep slipping.
My buddy the trans specialist, recommended I go to the paper clutches.
Then I read how the paper clutches are a No-No in the BW transmissions.
Paper vs semi metalic.
Opinions please!
Thanks
DS
Easy enough to rebuild.
They run standard Ford clutch plates (ford part # C9AZ-7B164-A)
5 discs with the 4 metal plates in between.
Currently running the Ford semi-metalic plates.
Only problem is if you overpower them once, they glaze. Then they want to keep slipping.
My buddy the trans specialist, recommended I go to the paper clutches.
Then I read how the paper clutches are a No-No in the BW transmissions.
Paper vs semi metalic.
Opinions please!
Thanks
DS
#2
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Raybestos Blue or Alto Red Eagle have higher friction coefficients and are avaialble for those tranny's in several thicknesses which would allow you to run additional clutches and frictions for increased torque capacity.
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Paper cluctes are the way to go. That trans. only develops 90 to 105 psi. Bronze plates will slip under a hard run. Also put 2 #10 stainless washers under the control spring in the pump housing. It will give another 10 to 15 pounds of pressure. The cooling water for the trans. should not exit thru the exhaust manifold but thru a seperate transom dump. It will cool better and not clog up with rust and salt. Not forget to put the washer and o-ring on the output shaft or the drive's input shaft spring will rip out the output seal.
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Excellent!
Thanks for the input.
The cooler line already has it's own dump hose.
I learned my lesson the hard way on the spring tearing the seal. The thrust washers were missing when I bought the boat. Replaced the seals more than once, before I figured out the thrust washer was missing.
Uh Oh, What o-ring? Is that just to hold the thrust washer in place?
DS
Thanks for the input.
The cooler line already has it's own dump hose.
I learned my lesson the hard way on the spring tearing the seal. The thrust washers were missing when I bought the boat. Replaced the seals more than once, before I figured out the thrust washer was missing.
Uh Oh, What o-ring? Is that just to hold the thrust washer in place?
DS
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Yes the o-ring holds on the washer.You really don't need the spring if you could somehow get the drive's tail yoke into the trans. Its for alignment only. Merc said years ago that the spring helped the outshaft's preload for the bearing, but I doubt it since the bearing is a roller bearing and not a tapered bearing.
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On re-read: I've got the BW trans.
My drives don't have the alignment springs, and it can bring you to tears trying to get the shaft into the transmission. I plan on adding the alignment springs next time I remove the drives.
Questions: Do the springs go on the drive shaft, or on the back of the trans? Is there supposed to be a washer and o ring on the bw trans?
My drives don't have the alignment springs, and it can bring you to tears trying to get the shaft into the transmission. I plan on adding the alignment springs next time I remove the drives.
Questions: Do the springs go on the drive shaft, or on the back of the trans? Is there supposed to be a washer and o ring on the bw trans?
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There is no spring or washer on a b/w set-up. I too have said some foul words putting on B/w set-up drives. I find if the gimbal is straight horizontal, vertical and if the block up the bottom of the skeg w/ wood it works well. Block it up pretty straight with the gimbal. You may have to use a screwdriver to keep the u=joints straight. Be care not to put a hole thru the bellows with the screwdriver. Sometimes if the engine alignment is off its tough to put the drive on. Never pull the drive on used the 6 nuts and studs.