dyno

I want to clean up the front of my mills with cross overs do you have any problems with water temps running them??? I had then once on a blower motor but the guy that built it kind of jerry rigged it and the thng was way cold blooded , if you run stats in them they should run the same as with water pumps right????

Cord

Yes! I'm currently running a 120* tstat, and it barely moves the temp gauge. In the warm Ozark water on a 100* day I'll maybe see 130 degrees (hard to tell because the gauge isn't graduated). I'm gonna try adding a restrictor plate at the block inlet and I'm going to a 160* tstat.

The engine runs so cold that in humid weather, the intake manifold will develop some serious condensation.

Jonas

ihave the same issue no water temp to speakoff and that cant be good....
also i believe because no restriction my water pres gauges only read about 7-10 pounds at 80mph..
but there is plenty comin out the back????
i dont like that i would like to see at least double that number.
ideas???

thanks

dyno

Thats my biggest concern....I dont want to puyt them on if I cant make good water temp like 150+ I'll leave the old ugly Merc crap on that works....

Jonas

good plan,, i thnk?? i dont know enough about the marine chit but i know when i was racing motorcycles we would tape off radiator to get the right temp on 2 strokes woouldnt cold seicze and when raced 4 strokes would do that but also my ewngine builder would calculate what oil temp and water tmp would need for opt power and dial it in,,

j winkelman

I switched to the water pump deleate kit last year and installed the pressure guages in the seapumps and at idle I get 5lbs and wide open I would peg the guage.I installed some pressurse dump valves and wide open it's abot 20-25lbs.now I was given a 145 thermostate with a hole drilled in it and it stayed cold I put a 170 in with no holes and it stays 140-150 runing it hard it gets to 180 I'd like it to run a little hotter at wide open

RLW

I ran a crossover on last year's blower motor with reasonably good success. Mine had a bypass with a orifice installed in the bypass. It was a 1/2" pipe plug with a 3/8" hole drilled through the center of it. This was inserted in the bypass hose. I used a 142 degree T-Stat with (3) 3/16" holes drilled in it. I was getting about 155 degree water temp. My oil temp was an indicated 200 degrees. These temps were at normal cruising rpm's and would increase whenever I would run it hard. I wanted to see a higher oil temp to "burn off" any condensation in the oil. There were signs of condensation when the motor was torn down. I was running a Perma-Cool Oil T-Stat.
I am looking at other Oil T-Stat setups for my new 540 project. I like the idea of using a bypass style crossover as it also helps to alleviate excessive cooling water block pressure, a means to regulate temp with the orifice and supply a constant water flow to the exhaust system.

Nordicflame

RLW, was it just your oil temp that increased when running hard or your water temps also?
What was your water pressure?
Thanks,
Dave

RLW

Both water and oil temps increased maybe 10 degrees. Remember, it was a blower motor. I would not run wide open for very long periods of time. My water pressure was about 5-7 psi at idle and never exceeded 20-23 psi at WOT. I am also running a "Blue Globe" impeller which seems to be more pliable than a stock Merc Impeller. What I am implying is that possibly the pressure output could be less due to the softer material.

Nordicflame

Sounds like your achieving good pressure with no relief valve; correct?
Did you ever notice any pressure flucuation when the thermo opened and closed?
Thanks Again,
Dave