Plywood (Seat) Question???
#15
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Interior refurbish
FunHome,
Been down that road before. I coated everything with fiberglass resin. I put two coats on. The plywood was given to me and I was told it was marine grade. I think regular plywood will be fine, but definately coat it. Finally, those rusted t-nuts shown in your photos are also made in stainless steel. I purchased mine at Sears hardware. Not cheap but worth the money.
Starboard is very expensive. I looked into using it.
Good luck
Paul
Been down that road before. I coated everything with fiberglass resin. I put two coats on. The plywood was given to me and I was told it was marine grade. I think regular plywood will be fine, but definately coat it. Finally, those rusted t-nuts shown in your photos are also made in stainless steel. I purchased mine at Sears hardware. Not cheap but worth the money.
Starboard is very expensive. I looked into using it.
Good luck
Paul
#17
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Funhome... you're right. Marine-grade plywood is not necessary, but be sure to use an exterior grade plywood. The glue used to hold the ply's together is waterproof. I re-did my hatch cover on the Baja a few years back. Got the material from Shutte Lumber on Southwest Blvd. Also, as stated above, the "T" nuts do come in stainless steel. Get them from Strasser Hardware, just down the street from Shutte on Southwest Blvd. Oh, and another thing, be sure to use stainless steel staples as well. Original staples were not and had rusted. Either get a electric or pneumatic stapler or your hand will feel like it's about to fall off!
#18
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Exterior plywood is fine. Minimally, coat it with a sealant(ie valspar polyurethane) to seal out water. A coat of fiberglass cloth and resin is even better.
Dont count out starboard so fast. Check with a few plastics dealer in your area. There are a number of different products similar to starboard available in various strengths, densities, sizes, and prices made by several manufacturers. It can be very cost effective in rot prone areas and where it will be seen (no painting/finishing required).
Gary
Dont count out starboard so fast. Check with a few plastics dealer in your area. There are a number of different products similar to starboard available in various strengths, densities, sizes, and prices made by several manufacturers. It can be very cost effective in rot prone areas and where it will be seen (no painting/finishing required).
Gary
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I replaced the floor of a 19' open bow boat i use to have and coated it with fiberglass cloth and resin. The original manufacturer did the same thing (that's where i got the idea) but then thay cut a hole in the center to hold the skis and didn't seal the freshly cut ends they exposed. So it rotted from the inside out but it took 15 years and it wasn't completely rotten it was just getting soft.
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You'd be silly not to use marine plywood. Do not use wolmanized or pressure treated exterior plywood. There is a difference in the glues and in the quality of the wood. Marine plywood uses water proof glues as opposed to the others which use water "resistant" glues. Also, marine plywood is typically better quality with no voids that can (and will) trap moisture. it also tends to be far more dimensionally stable.
Also, with regard to coating the wood to prevent moisture, forget it. Woodenboat Magazine published a study several years ago that documented that moisture will enter the wood regardless, that there is not true moisture barrier, and the coatings will prevent it from fully drying - which results in mold and then rot even sooner.
Look at the wood that's in the boat now. If it's not too gone you ought to be able to identify it's origin, marine or interior/exterior and the grade. With a production boat such as a Baja it wouldn't surprise me to see non marine wood used as a a cost savings measure. My 1990 Baja has interior grade wood in the seats. Then think about the age of the existing wood and how long you expect your project to last. If you're OK with using the same or perhaps better wood for the duration the existing wood has been in the boat, why go to the additional expense or labor in coating it?
I whole heartedly agree with using SS T-nuts. They can be tricky to install though. Always use the bolt to pull them home rather than hammering them in from behind beforehand. If the least bit crooked the bolt will crossthread and you'll be in a world of hurt. Don't ask me how I know...
Good luck!
Also, with regard to coating the wood to prevent moisture, forget it. Woodenboat Magazine published a study several years ago that documented that moisture will enter the wood regardless, that there is not true moisture barrier, and the coatings will prevent it from fully drying - which results in mold and then rot even sooner.
Look at the wood that's in the boat now. If it's not too gone you ought to be able to identify it's origin, marine or interior/exterior and the grade. With a production boat such as a Baja it wouldn't surprise me to see non marine wood used as a a cost savings measure. My 1990 Baja has interior grade wood in the seats. Then think about the age of the existing wood and how long you expect your project to last. If you're OK with using the same or perhaps better wood for the duration the existing wood has been in the boat, why go to the additional expense or labor in coating it?
I whole heartedly agree with using SS T-nuts. They can be tricky to install though. Always use the bolt to pull them home rather than hammering them in from behind beforehand. If the least bit crooked the bolt will crossthread and you'll be in a world of hurt. Don't ask me how I know...
Good luck!
Last edited by JohnJan; 03-02-2004 at 10:41 AM.