Engine Break-In
#11
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Just a couple of thoughts. Don't know if they're right or not but one would be;
I would think the heads would get more water with the thermostat in and partially closed. This would force water to the head passages rather than just a free escape path out the the thermo housing. Wouldn't it help also move air pockets out. Yes/No???
The other is I would think you need adequate temp to seat the rings properly.
I would think the heads would get more water with the thermostat in and partially closed. This would force water to the head passages rather than just a free escape path out the the thermo housing. Wouldn't it help also move air pockets out. Yes/No???
The other is I would think you need adequate temp to seat the rings properly.
#12
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http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
This is the philosophy I have always used in my cars, snowmobiles and motorcycles. I do not know if it has been the right way, but it has worked. I have not had a failure due to it.
This is the philosophy I have always used in my cars, snowmobiles and motorcycles. I do not know if it has been the right way, but it has worked. I have not had a failure due to it.
#14
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Originally posted by racinbird
Also I have heard that with a new cam you only want to run the lighter spring for less tension the first break in then swap in the other spring or two once you actually drive it. Maybe this is only relavent on non-roller cams? just my .02
Also I have heard that with a new cam you only want to run the lighter spring for less tension the first break in then swap in the other spring or two once you actually drive it. Maybe this is only relavent on non-roller cams? just my .02
#15
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Holland MI
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The engines we've been doing around here, like Dyno's, mine, SuperV's, Waterfoul's, only have about 110 pounds on the seat so the spring change isn't necessary. But the cams still need to be broken in properly. That's why we run them on the floor before they go in the boat. Check for oil and coolant leaks, pressures and temperatures, and set the ignition timing. After the break-in run the oil and filter is changed, it's run again, and antifreeze is run through it if it's cold enough to freeze. Spark plugs are removed to get a small amount of oil into the cylinders, turn the engine over by hand, and reinstall the plugs. Then all the openings are taped shut and it's ready to go in the boat.
#17
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Join Date: Dec 2003
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Originally posted by Crazyhorse
My biggest deal is with the cam lube, assuming that a moly-lube is used on flat-tappet cam/lifters. It's not uncommon to have the filter plugged with the lube. That's becoming less frequent because a lot of people are switching to roller lifters. Yeah, I'm a big believer in assembling a clean/clean/clean engine too. Besides, you end up looking everything over very closely several times. It's amazing what you can find.
My biggest deal is with the cam lube, assuming that a moly-lube is used on flat-tappet cam/lifters. It's not uncommon to have the filter plugged with the lube. That's becoming less frequent because a lot of people are switching to roller lifters. Yeah, I'm a big believer in assembling a clean/clean/clean engine too. Besides, you end up looking everything over very closely several times. It's amazing what you can find.
#19
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Join Date: Nov 2001
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I've blocked my bypasses and will run this summer with none. I am going to run filters with bypass valves. Problem with a boat engine and the bypass in when it opens, the oil not only bypasses the filter, it bypasses the cooler. Therefore, you always have X amount of uncooled, unfiltered oil running through the system. Blocking the bypass, oil will only bypass the filter (via filter bp) and will be forced though the cooler. This way you will run a percentage of unfiltered oil but all oil will alway be cooled. Hope it works!!
BT
BT
Last edited by blue thunder; 03-06-2004 at 06:06 PM.