Panther

Ok, so I started my project today of unbolting the stbd. motor so i can replace the trans. the motor has been in the boat since 1996 (which I kinda guess is a good thing).

One of the rear engine mounts is seized and the bolt is seized where it goes thru the transom assembly and not on the bushing where it usually gets seized.

Anyone have any ideas on how to get this badboy out, I don't have an acetalene torch. I can't pull the motor with the bolt stuck in because the tailstock limits me from lifting the motor staight up.

I can lift the motor up an inch or two which gives me access to the center of the bolt. I was thinking of cutting the bolt and then worrying about how I am going to get the rest of it out after I pull the motor.

If anyone has had one stuck like this please let me know I am open to suggestions at this point. I had a 3/4" breaker bar with a 4 foot pipe and the damn thing was still laughing at me.

Panther

marinetrans

I use 3/4 impact w/impact socket. You could also remove 8 bolts that connects tail stock to the trans. pull the motor forward and it will seperate. You can pull out the motor/trans. w/ the tailstock still in the boat.

p4-33

Panther, what about cutting the head of the bolt off with a dremel tool? Better yet, do you have room to saw off the bottom nut? If you saw off the top, there might not be enough lower clearance to slide the bolt down and clear the tailstock "ears". But cutting off the top might give you the room to slide the bolt down, then cut off the nut. Doesn't sound attractive either way.

Like marinetrans says, I've always used a 15/16" box on the lower nut, then used an impact wrench on the bolt head. Just make sure the wrench on the lower end is braced against something solid, and not fragile.

Good luck,
Brian

p4-33

Also, keep in mind that those tranny's are f'in HEAVY. What? 150lbs, maybe? That's a lot of weight to be hanging in front of your tailstock ears without a motor supporting it. Those cast tailstocks aren't designed for that type of twisting load. I've never tried this, and my opinion, I'd only pull the engine out separately from the trans as a last resort. Marinetrans probably has quite a bit more experience than I.

In the end, you'll still have to get the bolts out.

Again, good luck,
Brian

Panther

I already grided the lower nut off because that was stuck as well (That was the easy part). then I thought the shoulder of the bolt was stuck in the mount on the tailstock so I melted out the rubber in the bushing (no luck). I should have known better because the bolt was stuck "solid" and usually when it is siezed in the bushing you can swist the bolt an inch or so.

So, now this is what I have. The bushing is separated (melted the rubber out), grinded the nut of, and now the bolt is completely seized where it passes thru the "ear" on the transom assembly.

I can jack up the front of the motor an inch or so which gives me access to the sholder of the bolt below the tail stock. I was thinking of cutting the bolt there and pulling the motor giving me more room to work. After that I can always drill out the bolt or drill some small holes around the bolt to releive it.

I am kind of weary to unbolt the tailstock from the trans, I am affriaid I may break something.


Any other ideas?????

Gary Anderson

Do you have clearance to drill through the center of the bolt from the top? BTW, the torch will melt the aluminum tailstock before it cuts the steel bolt.
You could also try to grind off the top of the bolt, heat it, thendrive it down.
Gary

marinetrans

Just unbolt the tailstock, use 3/8 allen socket, some had a couple of bolts that take a 5/8 wrench (8 bolts ). Disconnect the shift linkage too. Piece of cake. Pull motor foward from tailstock. Gasket might hold it from sliding out right away so give it a little pry.

Panther

Here is my plan as it stands right now. I am going to lift the back of the engine up so I can cut the shoulder of the bolt with the sawzall, then I am going to pull out the motor so I have more room to work with. I am going to borrow an acetalene torch and put on the rosebud (not a cutting torch) and heat the aluminum because it expands quicker than steel, of course not so hot that it melts the aluminum. Then hopefully I can drive the bolt thru. If that doesn't work than I am going to remove the transom plate and drill it out on the bench, or even get a used inner transom plate from a friend.

I think it will be easier for me to lift the engine and cut the bolt rather than unbolt the tailstock from the trans. It is pretty tight back there because the trans is underneath the deck and I know it will be a pain in the a$$.

Panther

copout

Just an old Idea too simple to not try ,
1. heat whatever is holding the bolt ( Don't Melt it)
2. place an ice cube on top of the bolt and keep the ice on so have several on hand
you should gain about one thou with the cold heat treatment and get your cutting oil in while you start turning the bolt . always worked on Aircraft engines .. Hope this help , copout