Yellow hull stains
03-27-2004, 03:15 AM
#21
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Jerry,
Pumping the tanks is not legal but remember where you are and that no one is really watching. I think the yellow is ab algae type stain. Seems more prevalent the closer you get to the dam. Up around the islands or closer to the middle of the pool you will not get any yellowing at all. The closer you get to Louisville at times of the year the yellow will appear. I have also got the yellow from Marinas at Cumberland when the water is warm. Might be exhaust and oil from generators. I tend to believe the algae as the Simple Green works.
The Muriatic acid 50/50 in a spray bottle takes it right off. Just use it on the stain and hit it with a 10 minute wax job. Waxing the water line with a synthetic type wax such as Nu Finish helps prevent it. I will often do a quick wax before going out and if I miss a small spot it will yellow there but nowhere else.
What are you doing for tunes on the boat? Have you seen these?
http://www.ssiamerica.com/products/neo35/index.shtml
Tim T.
Pumping the tanks is not legal but remember where you are and that no one is really watching. I think the yellow is ab algae type stain. Seems more prevalent the closer you get to the dam. Up around the islands or closer to the middle of the pool you will not get any yellowing at all. The closer you get to Louisville at times of the year the yellow will appear. I have also got the yellow from Marinas at Cumberland when the water is warm. Might be exhaust and oil from generators. I tend to believe the algae as the Simple Green works.
The Muriatic acid 50/50 in a spray bottle takes it right off. Just use it on the stain and hit it with a 10 minute wax job. Waxing the water line with a synthetic type wax such as Nu Finish helps prevent it. I will often do a quick wax before going out and if I miss a small spot it will yellow there but nowhere else.
What are you doing for tunes on the boat? Have you seen these?
http://www.ssiamerica.com/products/neo35/index.shtml
Tim T.
03-27-2004, 09:38 AM
#22
Ginger or Mary Ann?
Charter MemberThread Starter
Tunes? Not sure. I hope to get my new Spark-O-Matic
8-track player installed this weekend. I got a great deal on one. Just gotta finish making the cardboard mounting box so I can get it covered with some shag or velvet material. It should be real groovy.
That radio is awlsome. I'm WAY behind on technology today. Being the big stero guy that I am, I'm pretty content with my new Babbs speakers, MTX amp and 8" sub. Would like to install a bigger sub, but that one is built in from Fountain under the rear bench seat, fiberglass and all, and just no room for bigger w/o a major rework.
See Ya!
Jerry
8-track player installed this weekend. I got a great deal on one. Just gotta finish making the cardboard mounting box so I can get it covered with some shag or velvet material. It should be real groovy.
That radio is awlsome. I'm WAY behind on technology today. Being the big stero guy that I am, I'm pretty content with my new Babbs speakers, MTX amp and 8" sub. Would like to install a bigger sub, but that one is built in from Fountain under the rear bench seat, fiberglass and all, and just no room for bigger w/o a major rework.
See Ya!
Jerry
__________________
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
03-27-2004, 02:47 PM
#23
Registered
If you or anyone else want the Neo35 in the above link I have a 60 GB library I could load for you. Covers all Genres. That is about 1200 CD's. Just Format and Partion the drive and load the directory. My library is legal as well.
03-30-2004, 07:04 PM
#25
Registered
Ring-Go didn't work. I truly find that hard to believe if it was used correctly. Did you wipe it on with a damp rag and let it sit for 5 minutes before spraying it off???
Answering your question; anything with muratic acid is going to be on the "strongest" stuff list. If you want straight Muratic just go to the hardware store and buy it cheap. Dilute it 2:1 and it will take off anything. Just be careful of your metal parts and be sure to thoroughly rinse every crevice or you'll cause a lot of damage. BTW, the same goes for any of the cleaners listed here...
Show us some pics
Answering your question; anything with muratic acid is going to be on the "strongest" stuff list. If you want straight Muratic just go to the hardware store and buy it cheap. Dilute it 2:1 and it will take off anything. Just be careful of your metal parts and be sure to thoroughly rinse every crevice or you'll cause a lot of damage. BTW, the same goes for any of the cleaners listed here...
Show us some pics
Last edited by Vyper340; 03-30-2004 at 07:08 PM.
03-30-2004, 08:52 PM
#26
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Ring-Go has been the best thing to take off the river scum for me. Nothing else would touch our stains except snobol and I won't use that on my boat. I had a couple of friends use snobol and the more they used it, the more often they needed to use it.
03-30-2004, 09:36 PM
#27
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Ring-go is the best stuff I have used to clean off stains
35' boat sat in lake for 3months wiped it on with a wet rag gave it a rinse and shazaam back to new once again .
In a 32oz bottle I used less then a 1/8 of a bottle.
I am telling you this stuff works.
I own a auto dealership and have all kinds of cleaners
available .White wall cleaners ,wire wheel cleaners.
Nothing works as good or as clean as Ring-go.
35' boat sat in lake for 3months wiped it on with a wet rag gave it a rinse and shazaam back to new once again .
In a 32oz bottle I used less then a 1/8 of a bottle.
I am telling you this stuff works.
I own a auto dealership and have all kinds of cleaners
available .White wall cleaners ,wire wheel cleaners.
Nothing works as good or as clean as Ring-go.
03-30-2004, 10:03 PM
#28
Ginger or Mary Ann?
Charter MemberThread Starter
No, Ring-go did not phase this yellow stuff. I left it on for 15 min, applied with both a damp and dry rag. Even scrubbed it.
I tried Iron Out last fall before taking the boat to the shop for bottom repairs. Didn't want them matching the stains, but it didn't work either. Iron Out did work on the previous couple of times when I boated at the same place. Don't know why it didn't work this time.
I got it off with Simple Green and a soft brush. I started by wet sanding with 3000 soaked with SG until I tried a brush. Anyways, it is white as can be now. Just gotta give it all a couple good coats of wax still.
Got a brand new bottle of ON-OFF that is going to go down the drain. Just the fumes from that stuff should have removed the yellow. Got a new trailer and ain't taking no chances of messing up the paint.
I tried Iron Out last fall before taking the boat to the shop for bottom repairs. Didn't want them matching the stains, but it didn't work either. Iron Out did work on the previous couple of times when I boated at the same place. Don't know why it didn't work this time.
I got it off with Simple Green and a soft brush. I started by wet sanding with 3000 soaked with SG until I tried a brush. Anyways, it is white as can be now. Just gotta give it all a couple good coats of wax still.
Got a brand new bottle of ON-OFF that is going to go down the drain. Just the fumes from that stuff should have removed the yellow. Got a new trailer and ain't taking no chances of messing up the paint.
__________________
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
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03-31-2004, 10:17 AM
#30
Rough Seas Lie Ahead
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I'm surprised the Ringo didn't do the trick. As Vype says and proven by many locally, the stuff works great.
But while on the subject of off-beat remedies, Mequires Tire/Rim Cleaner in a clear spray bottle with pinkish liquid found at your local Advance Auto for just under $4, works great for your run of the mill yellowing without any caustic ordors. The thinbg about ON/Off is it contains three acids and is highly caustic. I used it a few years ago on my 230SX Stingray after it took forever to get yellow. After On/Off it apparently etched my clearcoat, because it started yellowing everything d*mned weekend. I'll never use the stuff again.
My rule of thumb is if I can'r apply it without using a full body suit with respirator to apply it doesn't go on my hull. Would you use something like that on your new car finish? Maybe that's the litmus test...
But while on the subject of off-beat remedies, Mequires Tire/Rim Cleaner in a clear spray bottle with pinkish liquid found at your local Advance Auto for just under $4, works great for your run of the mill yellowing without any caustic ordors. The thinbg about ON/Off is it contains three acids and is highly caustic. I used it a few years ago on my 230SX Stingray after it took forever to get yellow. After On/Off it apparently etched my clearcoat, because it started yellowing everything d*mned weekend. I'll never use the stuff again.
My rule of thumb is if I can'r apply it without using a full body suit with respirator to apply it doesn't go on my hull. Would you use something like that on your new car finish? Maybe that's the litmus test...
