Procharger Help needed
#21
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Rapid City SD
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OK, here's the latest. The weather was nice today so we took off early and hit the lake. Well to make a long story short, it's still running really rich. We did get it on plane but I could still hear it blubbering at 50. Didn't even bother pulling the plugs.
We couldn't get the temp to raise up at all, so I think we are just going to send the ECU in to get it reprogrammed. We will get a 120 degree thermostat also, so we can get the temp to raise up and keep the condensation from making things worse. Drill a couple of holes to keep the exhaust from getting to hot then see what we can we have. This is kind of fun, but my friend doesn't think so. I have been through a lot of testing and trial and tweaking with this type of stuff, but my friend likes to just hit the key and go. I told him that it will be ok once we get the bugs worked out. Just need to drink another beer and wait for the ECU to get back.
Thanks for all the help
We couldn't get the temp to raise up at all, so I think we are just going to send the ECU in to get it reprogrammed. We will get a 120 degree thermostat also, so we can get the temp to raise up and keep the condensation from making things worse. Drill a couple of holes to keep the exhaust from getting to hot then see what we can we have. This is kind of fun, but my friend doesn't think so. I have been through a lot of testing and trial and tweaking with this type of stuff, but my friend likes to just hit the key and go. I told him that it will be ok once we get the bugs worked out. Just need to drink another beer and wait for the ECU to get back.
Thanks for all the help
#22
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Hey Rockie,
Hopefully I’ll have some good input for you Monday.
I’ve got mine setup with the 120* with one 1/8 hole and then runnig two 1/8 minimum ID steam relief hoses off the back of the manifold. I also am using a 3/8 ID bypass and a pressure relief. I’m also currently plumbed with the intercooler T’d in just after the sea water pump. (this may change depending on pressure)
I’ve also put a .495 ID restrictor in each hose going to the exhaust based on the following thought.
Based on extensive testing by Whipple and Teague (G.T.) it has been concluded that an approximately .700” diameter restrictor plate in place of a thermostat has proven to provide the best temperature and pressure control for blown, non thermostatically controlled applications. The two .495 ID restrictors are the equivalent to the one .700 hole.
With that in mind I’m theorizing that when the thermo is closed I will be dumping off excess pressure thru the pressure relief valve and bypass. When the thermostat opens I won’t see a big free fall in pressure due to the restriction going to the exhaust and the closing of the relief valve. This should keep pressure fluctuation to a minimum and also maintain a good working, proven pressure and flow.
Going to find out![Smilie](/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Will report Monday after a run in 40* water over the weekend.
Later,
Dave
Hopefully I’ll have some good input for you Monday.
I’ve got mine setup with the 120* with one 1/8 hole and then runnig two 1/8 minimum ID steam relief hoses off the back of the manifold. I also am using a 3/8 ID bypass and a pressure relief. I’m also currently plumbed with the intercooler T’d in just after the sea water pump. (this may change depending on pressure)
I’ve also put a .495 ID restrictor in each hose going to the exhaust based on the following thought.
Based on extensive testing by Whipple and Teague (G.T.) it has been concluded that an approximately .700” diameter restrictor plate in place of a thermostat has proven to provide the best temperature and pressure control for blown, non thermostatically controlled applications. The two .495 ID restrictors are the equivalent to the one .700 hole.
With that in mind I’m theorizing that when the thermo is closed I will be dumping off excess pressure thru the pressure relief valve and bypass. When the thermostat opens I won’t see a big free fall in pressure due to the restriction going to the exhaust and the closing of the relief valve. This should keep pressure fluctuation to a minimum and also maintain a good working, proven pressure and flow.
Going to find out
![Smilie](/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Will report Monday after a run in 40* water over the weekend.
Later,
Dave
![Big Grin](/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#23
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Guys, a simple solution to the cold operation cycle is that procharger sells a device that gets wired into the water temperature sender that never lets the computer know the temperature is cold. I questioned the starting ease with this, but it always cold started great, even on some very cold days. I know remapping the computer and adding a thermostat is a better way, but this worked great for me, and I did not have the cost. Fyi, I have heard several people talk about running 40+ psi at idle, this was wayyyyy too much fuel for my motor. I ended up with running 33lbs. at idle and my plugs showed a slightly rich condition.(502 Mag, M-3, AN-10 fuel lines with return to the tank) My advice now is to keep it simple don't change too many things or else you won't know what the results of the changes are. I would also recommend that you go back to stock timing, it should work fine for your application. I had great luck with my procharger system and you will too.
Eric
Eric