TRS Drive installation
#1
Registered
Gold Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
TRS Drive installation
I have TRS drives on my 1986 Fromula and cannot seem to get them to slide in. They went on fine last year and came off o.k. in the fall. I get it to within 1 inch of all-the-way-on and something hits. What is the trick? I jiggled the drive (not an easy thing to do at about 120 lbs each), turned the shaft a bit but nothing seems to help. I have the trim cylinders held up as far as they go to keep them out of the way. I have only attempted the starboard side so I don't know if this is a problem with both.
Any help is appreciated.
Thank you
JK
Any help is appreciated.
Thank you
JK
#2
Charter Member #232
Charter Member
Not sure what Tranny you have but are they alligned correctly if you have the Borge Warners?
If you are ok with the alignment then you are probably off with the spline allignment. To get them to go into allignment you actually need to pull the drive out a bit before you spin the prop shaft. If you just try and push in and spin the prop shaft the splines in the tranny will spin with your drive shaft.
Jon
If you are ok with the alignment then you are probably off with the spline allignment. To get them to go into allignment you actually need to pull the drive out a bit before you spin the prop shaft. If you just try and push in and spin the prop shaft the splines in the tranny will spin with your drive shaft.
Jon
__________________
Put your best foot forward!
Put your best foot forward!
#3
Registered
Yup, these things are a ***** alright. I used to fight with mine for HOURS before I figured it out.
First, you need to hang them from the eye hook on the top cap, and be able to adjust up and down, like with a chainfall. Set the height so they are aligned with the gimbal relaxed or in the down position.
Be gentle on the oil seals! If they have any dings, replace them. If they are a couple of years old, replace them. As a safety measure, I take a piece of cardboard, bend it over so it makes a flap over the seal, and tape it to the side of the gimbal. This way, once the yoke slides home, the oil nipple doesn't slam into the seal.
Now the easy part Align the u-joint yoke closest to the drive upper end so it it's vertical, and slide the yoke into the gimbal until it butts up against the trans tailstock. At this point you'll be on the studs about 1/2". Now, stick your thumbs in the sides and guide the forward yoke side to side. It needs to be straight. While you're guiding the yoke with your thumbs, rock the drive up and down GENTLY with your knees. Again, go easy on the seal, plus your thumbs are in there! You may need to turn the yoke slighlty with your thumbs, but you only need to move it 1 tooth or so.
Once she slides home, pull out the cardboard, and guide the nipple in the hole. Stick a nut on and say nice things to it.
Best of luck,
Brian
First, you need to hang them from the eye hook on the top cap, and be able to adjust up and down, like with a chainfall. Set the height so they are aligned with the gimbal relaxed or in the down position.
Be gentle on the oil seals! If they have any dings, replace them. If they are a couple of years old, replace them. As a safety measure, I take a piece of cardboard, bend it over so it makes a flap over the seal, and tape it to the side of the gimbal. This way, once the yoke slides home, the oil nipple doesn't slam into the seal.
Now the easy part Align the u-joint yoke closest to the drive upper end so it it's vertical, and slide the yoke into the gimbal until it butts up against the trans tailstock. At this point you'll be on the studs about 1/2". Now, stick your thumbs in the sides and guide the forward yoke side to side. It needs to be straight. While you're guiding the yoke with your thumbs, rock the drive up and down GENTLY with your knees. Again, go easy on the seal, plus your thumbs are in there! You may need to turn the yoke slighlty with your thumbs, but you only need to move it 1 tooth or so.
Once she slides home, pull out the cardboard, and guide the nipple in the hole. Stick a nut on and say nice things to it.
Best of luck,
Brian
#5
Registered
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: ST. Louis, MO, USA
Posts: 1,658
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It's usually due to the U joint mving out of alignment. Like was said befor, twisting the prop helps. I've also seen wraping the U joint in masking tape to keep it strait. The tape just tears off after it's run.
Gary
Gary
#6
Registered
Gold Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Brian, Jon,
Thank you for the advise.
Brian, good note about the oil seals. I probably should replace them although they look o.k.. What's involved with that? Is there a check valve that causes any problems or is it pretty simple?
I can make a simple stand to hold the drive suspended by the loop in the top. That should make it easier.
Jon, Trannys are borg-warner model 71C I believe. I propably was spinning them with the shaft which could explain the spline-allignment difficulty.
Thanks again.
JK
Thank you for the advise.
Brian, good note about the oil seals. I probably should replace them although they look o.k.. What's involved with that? Is there a check valve that causes any problems or is it pretty simple?
I can make a simple stand to hold the drive suspended by the loop in the top. That should make it easier.
Jon, Trannys are borg-warner model 71C I believe. I propably was spinning them with the shaft which could explain the spline-allignment difficulty.
Thanks again.
JK
#7
Registered
Payton -
If it takes cuddling and pillow talk to get these bastages to cooperate, I'm all for it. I've spent many an hour cussing at them, and experience has taught me that sweet-talking them works much better. This whole process is akin to coitis, and plain & simple, if she won't cooperate, your yoke ain't going in the tailstock.
JK, the seals should pry out with a screwdriver, and you'll destroy them in the process. To re-install tap them in with the end of a 2x2" piece of wood and a hammer. Only seat them deep enough so the surface of the seal is flush with the gimbal housing face.
The check valve only keeps the oil from dripping out while the drive is off. I don't think there's much in there that can wear out or need replacing as a maintenance item.
Cheers,
Brian
If it takes cuddling and pillow talk to get these bastages to cooperate, I'm all for it. I've spent many an hour cussing at them, and experience has taught me that sweet-talking them works much better. This whole process is akin to coitis, and plain & simple, if she won't cooperate, your yoke ain't going in the tailstock.
JK, the seals should pry out with a screwdriver, and you'll destroy them in the process. To re-install tap them in with the end of a 2x2" piece of wood and a hammer. Only seat them deep enough so the surface of the seal is flush with the gimbal housing face.
The check valve only keeps the oil from dripping out while the drive is off. I don't think there's much in there that can wear out or need replacing as a maintenance item.
Cheers,
Brian