TRS - Time to change trim/tilt cylinders?
#11
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I hope someone will save this someplace, I am a lousy typist
1) Check to make sure the lines are not switched at connector block (where all 4 connect) Front to front, rear to rear on both sides
2) Does the pump load when all the way up, meaning when the drive reaches the end of the travel the motor slows down and groans - if so the up circuit on the pump is putting out the PSI and the cylinders are not bypassing in that direction.
If it does not load, put the drive all the way up. Now disconnect the down line from the pump, hit the up button and be prepared to catch some fluid out of the end of the hose yo have just disconnected if the cylinder/s is not all the way up, or it is bypassing internally.
3) Does the pump load when all the way down? If yes than the PSI is ok, and the cylinder is not leaking, most likely bound up at the end caps
4) Most common problem is that it does not load. Get the drive all the way down, disconnect the up line, hit button down and be prepared to catch fluid from the hose again.
This is best done with the boat out of the water, that way if yo pull the lines at the connector you can deduce which cylinder is leaking.
The down circuit on all but the #6 and newer solid piston #3 4 & 5 has a relief valve for when you hit something, these will eventually leak in many cases.
Yes the gauges is good, and will really verify the pump but this is a quick and dirty no special tools way to at least get headed in the right direction.
I know this sounds confusing, bet when the cylinder is at either end of it’s travel, there should be no further fluid displacement unless it is leaking or until the internal relief valve opens..
1) Check to make sure the lines are not switched at connector block (where all 4 connect) Front to front, rear to rear on both sides
2) Does the pump load when all the way up, meaning when the drive reaches the end of the travel the motor slows down and groans - if so the up circuit on the pump is putting out the PSI and the cylinders are not bypassing in that direction.
If it does not load, put the drive all the way up. Now disconnect the down line from the pump, hit the up button and be prepared to catch some fluid out of the end of the hose yo have just disconnected if the cylinder/s is not all the way up, or it is bypassing internally.
3) Does the pump load when all the way down? If yes than the PSI is ok, and the cylinder is not leaking, most likely bound up at the end caps
4) Most common problem is that it does not load. Get the drive all the way down, disconnect the up line, hit button down and be prepared to catch fluid from the hose again.
This is best done with the boat out of the water, that way if yo pull the lines at the connector you can deduce which cylinder is leaking.
The down circuit on all but the #6 and newer solid piston #3 4 & 5 has a relief valve for when you hit something, these will eventually leak in many cases.
Yes the gauges is good, and will really verify the pump but this is a quick and dirty no special tools way to at least get headed in the right direction.
I know this sounds confusing, bet when the cylinder is at either end of it’s travel, there should be no further fluid displacement unless it is leaking or until the internal relief valve opens..
__________________
Marc
www.mercruiserparts.com
www.go-fast.com
www.bammarine.com
www.cyborgtransmissions.com
It's not alive -www.BoatStuffExpress.com - temporarily retired
Marc
www.mercruiserparts.com
www.go-fast.com
www.bammarine.com
www.cyborgtransmissions.com
It's not alive -www.BoatStuffExpress.com - temporarily retired
#12
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Yes, the pump loads when it reaches its upper limit. The pump will not lower the drive all the way, so there is no way to tell if it is loading on the down-stroke. I must stand on the drive and have someone operate the down buttons. This gets me to about 4" of trim shaft showing. Then, as the boat gets underway, the thrust from the prop pushes the drive the rest of the way down (as I push the down buttons).
I'll give your check method a try.
Not sure if the pump is HV/LP or not. It is an aftermarket replacement for my application.
Thanks again,
D. Ocean
Pompano Beach, FLA
I'll give your check method a try.
Not sure if the pump is HV/LP or not. It is an aftermarket replacement for my application.
Thanks again,
D. Ocean
Pompano Beach, FLA
#13
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We have found the new style pumps to work just fine even on the early applications.
Shameless plug here, but we sell them complete with the relays for $399
Shameless plug here, but we sell them complete with the relays for $399
__________________
Marc
www.mercruiserparts.com
www.go-fast.com
www.bammarine.com
www.cyborgtransmissions.com
It's not alive -www.BoatStuffExpress.com - temporarily retired
Marc
www.mercruiserparts.com
www.go-fast.com
www.bammarine.com
www.cyborgtransmissions.com
It's not alive -www.BoatStuffExpress.com - temporarily retired