BravoI impeller replacement
#11
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I have a 1989 Formula 272SR-1 that I have had overheating problems with also.
Formula used a fresh water flush that has a valve installed between the transom assy. and the seawater pump. If you have this, remove the hose from the transom assy. and check to see if the valve is all the way OPEN!
Mine stuck 1/4 of the way closed because of sand in it. Like to drive me nuts. Ran fine below 2500 rpm's but would overheat above that.
Cleaned out the sand and gravel and works great now.
I know that you had NO water out the exhaust, but.....just giving you a "heads up" for future problems with temps on the Formula brand.
Formula used a fresh water flush that has a valve installed between the transom assy. and the seawater pump. If you have this, remove the hose from the transom assy. and check to see if the valve is all the way OPEN!
Mine stuck 1/4 of the way closed because of sand in it. Like to drive me nuts. Ran fine below 2500 rpm's but would overheat above that.
Cleaned out the sand and gravel and works great now.
I know that you had NO water out the exhaust, but.....just giving you a "heads up" for future problems with temps on the Formula brand.
#12
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I would not use oil to lube your impellor. Oil breaks down rubber. Use common househould dish soap.
Also, quick tip for installing all veins correct the first time... wrap a zip-tie around your impellor before install, lean all veins the right way, and then sinch down the zip-tie and insert into the housing. Then cut the zip-tie with a pair of long dykes, (the tool, not lesbos).
I would advise aligning all your veins the right way from the get go. The plastic housings have some lea-way when you spin the impellor, to allow the veins to correct, if need be, but you are weakening the housing by doing so, even if for a second. The brass housings do not have any give. I have heard stories of veins flipping, and wedging the impellor solid in the housing. I always install my impellor, outside of the boat, entire pulley in hand, and look down he water intake tube to inspect each vein as I rotate by hand, to make sure its all good.
Also, quick tip for installing all veins correct the first time... wrap a zip-tie around your impellor before install, lean all veins the right way, and then sinch down the zip-tie and insert into the housing. Then cut the zip-tie with a pair of long dykes, (the tool, not lesbos).
I would advise aligning all your veins the right way from the get go. The plastic housings have some lea-way when you spin the impellor, to allow the veins to correct, if need be, but you are weakening the housing by doing so, even if for a second. The brass housings do not have any give. I have heard stories of veins flipping, and wedging the impellor solid in the housing. I always install my impellor, outside of the boat, entire pulley in hand, and look down he water intake tube to inspect each vein as I rotate by hand, to make sure its all good.
#14
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Originally Posted by TMANN
I have had to do it twice last year and can now do it in 15 min in the water. I always carry a spare after the last time...
TMANN
TMANN
If you take the inlet hose off of the pump with the boat in the water, does water start running in the boat? The pump has been a problem on my Bravo also. This season I actually stocked the boat with a spare pump and the few tools it takes to change it. I just am not sure if you would want to take the inlet hose off in deep water or if you need to beach the boat first.
#16
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Do it after you read this, it's a pictorial from Wally...he did a great job...
http://www.speedwake.com/upload/show...0&pagenumber=1
http://www.speedwake.com/upload/show...0&pagenumber=1