Losing Oil Pressure?
#31
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I have not yet checked bearings this time around. I installed a newly turned crank .10 under and appropriate bearings last round. I didnt like the look of the last crank.
I still dont think my timming is the problem I'm looking toward the by-pass valve in the oil remote filter adapter I sure hope an 12 dollar part didnt cause me all this trouble.
I still dont think my timming is the problem I'm looking toward the by-pass valve in the oil remote filter adapter I sure hope an 12 dollar part didnt cause me all this trouble.
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we had a similar problem on a guys car. It was a sbc with a remote mounted oil filter with braided steel aeroquip lines going to it. we had a mobil one oil filter on it and used straight 30 weight for break in on the motor. After running the motor for about 1 hour still using the 30 weight oil the oil pressure dropped to nothing. we changed the oil and filter several times and the same thing happened. What we eventually found was the braided steel lines going to the remote filter were swelling inside. Some kind of reaction between the inner rubber and the oil. we put new lines on it and the problem never came back. So maybe check your oil lines for swelling.
#33
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Originally Posted by Gary Anderson
One other thing, I know you replaced bearings, but did you check the size of the main caps and big end of the rods? Any signs of a spun bearing? May need to resize rods & caps, grind crank 10 under too.
Gary
Gary
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#34
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Originally Posted by Big Dawg
Looks like i'm tugging the motor this weekend to check the bearings and stuff then maybe to the machine shop. thanks again for all the input.
I have run with oil by-pass blocked for ever it seems. Just make sure you get some heat in your oil before you zing the throttle if you decide to block the by-pass.
I have seen moisture in the oil cause certain brand filters to clog causing LOW oil pressure but usually not zero after running for a short time.
Let us know what you find out. Good Luck.
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I bet you somehow got dirt in your bearings when you put them in. I saw this before on a Pontiac 400 Ram Air III. Oil pressure was good for 2 hours, then only good when cold after that. For oil pressure to be good with a hot motor, the bearing clearances have to be just right. Sounds like hot oil is finding it's way out through the bearings or distributor neck. I say it is not detonation, because that should break pistons and rings first.
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Here is my guess, when you installed the main caps one of them was installed out of the original sequence when they were re-installed thus creating wear and producing heat. Either way those bearings are now toast.
Good Luck.
Good Luck.
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Originally Posted by sonic28
what type of gauge electric or manuel if not manuel run a manuel and watch it.could also be all the oil on a high volume pump is pumping so fast your pump is cavitating add an extra quart.
Let me ask you this incase i missed it. Does the pressure ever return after a shut-down and cool-off?
Roby
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Actually I went to the boat this weekend, I removed the dist. and manually spun the shaft to the oil pump. With a manual guage hooked up i got 40 PSI so the oil pump is not clogged and did not fail. so then I start the engine to my suprise I now have oil pressure. 40 psi. but I heard a little knock sounded like a rod pin or sometheng so I pulled the motor did not tear it down yet but when I drained the oil it looked a little dirty for only haveing 2-3 hours on it. could I actually be boiling the oil and losing pressure? why would it take so long to boil and fail 1.5 hrs. running ?
I also replaced the oil cooler at the end of last season could this be the culprit?
I also replaced the oil cooler at the end of last season could this be the culprit?
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Originally Posted by Big Dawg
Actually I went to the boat this weekend, I removed the dist. and manually spun the shaft to the oil pump. With a manual guage hooked up i got 40 PSI so the oil pump is not clogged and did not fail. so then I start the engine to my suprise I now have oil pressure. 40 psi. but I heard a little knock sounded like a rod pin or sometheng so I pulled the motor did not tear it down yet but when I drained the oil it looked a little dirty for only haveing 2-3 hours on it. could I actually be boiling the oil and losing pressure? why would it take so long to boil and fail 1.5 hrs. running ?
I also replaced the oil cooler at the end of last season could this be the culprit?
I also replaced the oil cooler at the end of last season could this be the culprit?
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