Oil Temperature going to 240
#11
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Thanks guys. I will try going through all the lines during the week. The engines are running very coll (as usual) and the water pressure looks good. Ever since I replaced my 37"s with the 32"s, I dropped 10 mph and got this high oil temp. Maybe it is the water pressure not getting enough cool water to the oil coolers. I will check it out. Thanks for the advice.
#12
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I'm confused here. My oil temp is always about 215-220 and after a hard run (5600 rpm's) it's about 240-250. After letting off or slowing up to a cruise, it goes back to 215 after just a minute or two. I thought that was normal.
Craig
Craig
#13
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As long as your oil isn't going over 270-280 degrees your OK!
You want the oil to reach at least 200-220 degrees to make sure all condensation is evaporated. After a hard run if you see 250+ it won't hurt anything!
You want the oil to reach at least 200-220 degrees to make sure all condensation is evaporated. After a hard run if you see 250+ it won't hurt anything!
Last edited by TomR; 08-15-2004 at 08:05 PM.
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My cruise oil temp is about 220 and after a 5200 rpm run it's 240. Slowing up to cruise again, it goes back to 220.
It seems my oil temps are very similar to Craig's.
I also run Mobil One for added protection.
Russ
It seems my oil temps are very similar to Craig's.
I also run Mobil One for added protection.
Russ
Last edited by RLW; 08-16-2004 at 08:11 AM.
#16
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TomR you hit the nail right on the head. You definitely have to run at least 200+ degree's to burn off any condensation. Don't worry about heat that much. If you're familiar with NASCAR motors then you know that they run 400-500 (hard) miles at 8000-9000 rpm and their oil temps are 220-230 and the oil doesn't break down. Generally speaking a synthetic oil won't break down due to heat until at least 300+ degree's.
#17
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It is very important that the oil remain over 212, otherwise you will have a sludge lake in your oil pan. If you are getting temps over 260 and can't cool it any better then I STRONGLY suggest using a full synthetic oil such as Mobil-1.
At 280 breakdown begins and oil should be changed very frequently
290 to 300 to 310 you have a problem. Oil is breaking down at a rapid rate and coke (the gritty black sludge) is building up sandpapering your bearings.
Roby
At 280 breakdown begins and oil should be changed very frequently
290 to 300 to 310 you have a problem. Oil is breaking down at a rapid rate and coke (the gritty black sludge) is building up sandpapering your bearings.
Roby
#18
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Originally Posted by Spectre Man
BTW Strip, is your boat a Hustler. It is one good lookin' boat! The paint job is really trick.
Thanks .
It does sound like the oil cooler is stoped up .Have you lost a water impeller lately??.if the is not a water flow prob ,it may be internal
![Frown](/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Good luck
Rob
__________________
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The Only Time You Have To Much Ammo Is When Your Swimming Or On Fire.
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The Only Time You Have To Much Ammo Is When Your Swimming Or On Fire.
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Okay, so what is a good way to get the oil up over 200? Do I need thermostat type oil coolers or can I add a restrictor? Engines have crossovers and run 130-140 all day long on water temp oil usually stays below 180 and drops to 140 at slow speeds. It's rinning full synthetic and I am getting some condensation build up.
#20
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Spectre Man, Insptech and anyone else,
I had to go with a oil temperature controlled Thermostat/Filter Mount. It is a Mercury Racing part. I do not have the part number. I was running a crossover setup on my former blower motor and could never get the oil temp right. I ended up with sludgy oil. Believe me, I tried everything to get that oil temp right. So with my new motor, I decided that in order to achieve the proper oil temps that a thermostatically controlled device was necessary, especially with a crossover setup. I could have went with an Oil T-Stat oil cooler or the Oil T-Stat Filter mount. There are a few to choose from regardless which way you go.
I tried a Perma-Cool Oil T-Stat setup last year and did not have good results. It opens too early. 190 degrees.
Look at Mercury Racing, MoCal, Keith Eickert and Hardin Marine for some answers.
Spectre Man,
Don't forget to backflush your water cooling circuit to remove any blockages. Check those impellers.
I am curious that you having the 675 KE's, that there are not already some sort of oil temperature controlled devices already installed. Give KE a call first.
Good Luck!
Russ
I had to go with a oil temperature controlled Thermostat/Filter Mount. It is a Mercury Racing part. I do not have the part number. I was running a crossover setup on my former blower motor and could never get the oil temp right. I ended up with sludgy oil. Believe me, I tried everything to get that oil temp right. So with my new motor, I decided that in order to achieve the proper oil temps that a thermostatically controlled device was necessary, especially with a crossover setup. I could have went with an Oil T-Stat oil cooler or the Oil T-Stat Filter mount. There are a few to choose from regardless which way you go.
I tried a Perma-Cool Oil T-Stat setup last year and did not have good results. It opens too early. 190 degrees.
Look at Mercury Racing, MoCal, Keith Eickert and Hardin Marine for some answers.
Spectre Man,
Don't forget to backflush your water cooling circuit to remove any blockages. Check those impellers.
I am curious that you having the 675 KE's, that there are not already some sort of oil temperature controlled devices already installed. Give KE a call first.
Good Luck!
Russ