How Hard Can It Be?
#1
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How Hard Can It Be?
Can Anyone Give Me Some Pointers On Putting In Some Corsa Diverters? I Want To Buy Them And Install Myself, But I'm Gonna Need Some Assistance From You Guys. What Parts Will I Need Besides The Diverters Themselves?
#2
Ginger or Mary Ann?
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Re: How Hard Can It Be?
Depends, do you currently run straight thru hull exhaust or thru the prop? If thru hull, then you will also need a y-pipe, also called a bullhorn. If thru the prop currently, then peice of cake as you won't have top pull the motor cause you already have the y-pipe.
needed parts:
a) y-pipe and o-ring seal
b) 2 diverter valves
c) 4- 4"x approx 6-8"length hard wall exhaust hose. 2 for each valve, inlet and outlet
d) 2 rubber boots for divertor to y-pipe (Ordered from Merc, oval shaped)
e) exhaust risers made for silent choice. Again, if you currently have thru prop exhaust, you will have the right risers (elbows)
f) 24 hose clamps. 4 for each hose (2 at each end=double clamping)
g) exhaust tips and external flappers
Be best to mention what you have right now and go from there.
needed parts:
a) y-pipe and o-ring seal
b) 2 diverter valves
c) 4- 4"x approx 6-8"length hard wall exhaust hose. 2 for each valve, inlet and outlet
d) 2 rubber boots for divertor to y-pipe (Ordered from Merc, oval shaped)
e) exhaust risers made for silent choice. Again, if you currently have thru prop exhaust, you will have the right risers (elbows)
f) 24 hose clamps. 4 for each hose (2 at each end=double clamping)
g) exhaust tips and external flappers
Be best to mention what you have right now and go from there.
#4
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Re: How Hard Can It Be?
#5
Re: How Hard Can It Be?
Originally Posted by CAPTCHUCKV
I Have A 454 Mag W/ Through Hull Exhaust....all Stock.
Will I Need To Pull The Engine? I Hope Not!!!
Thanks
Will I Need To Pull The Engine? I Hope Not!!!
Thanks
#6
Ginger or Mary Ann?
Charter Member
Re: How Hard Can It Be?
Afraid so. Drive comes off, then motor has to come out, or at least forward a foot or so to slip the y-pipe into location and bolt it up. Then you also should have an alignment tool to realign the motor to the drive when you reinstall it. I'm guessing you have the plain stud motor mounts. You 'might' be lucky enough just by removing the top locking nuts only and not disturbing the lower nuts on the studs that the motor will go back in aligned. But best to have it checked. Even if you do the R&R of the motor yourself and haul the boat to a dealer with the drive off and let them check it for you. It only takes a minute to check. I highly recommend you have this checked. Job is getting more in depth now, eh?
I have seen a couple yrs back at a boat show on a few new Bajas that did in fact have the y-pipe installed, but had PVC caps plugging them up. Don't suppoose you would be lucky enought to have the y-pipe there? That would turn a weekend job into a couple hr job.
At least you have the holes already in the transom and tips.
On the bright side, you have enough exhaust hose to install the valves and can use your exhaust elbows.
So now you need:
y-pipe (be sure to install the internal flappers here also)
2 rubber y-pipe to divertor valves boots
16 clamps
I have seen a couple yrs back at a boat show on a few new Bajas that did in fact have the y-pipe installed, but had PVC caps plugging them up. Don't suppoose you would be lucky enought to have the y-pipe there? That would turn a weekend job into a couple hr job.
At least you have the holes already in the transom and tips.
On the bright side, you have enough exhaust hose to install the valves and can use your exhaust elbows.
So now you need:
y-pipe (be sure to install the internal flappers here also)
2 rubber y-pipe to divertor valves boots
16 clamps