Bravo 1 drive oil change procedure
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What is the correct procedure for B-1 drive oil change. I have dual external steering rams that have to be removed to get at top plug. Is there an easy way to avoid this? Suction pump?
Thanks,
Mark
Thanks,
Mark
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you need to remove the top plug , and should be able to get to it with a stubby screwdriver without removing the steering ram. You dont need a suction pump. Remove the drain / fill screw in the lower unit below the prop shaft. The fluid drains from there. After draining, the fluid is pumped through the lower drain hole until it starts to come out from the top. Put the screws back in and then fill your reservoir. Your good to go.
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Originally Posted by BRUCE SEROFF
you need to remove the top plug , and should be able to get to it with a stubby screwdriver without removing the steering ram. You dont need a suction pump. Remove the drain / fill screw in the lower unit below the prop shaft. The fluid drains from there. After draining, the fluid is pumped through the lower drain hole until it starts to come out from the top. Put the screws back in and then fill your reservoir. Your good to go.
Unfortunately this particular ext. steering bracket has bracing that won't allow me to get at top plug. I was just looking to avoid taking this stuff off 2-3 times a year.
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Mark
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When I change my oil the drive reservoir will empty itself if I do not flip the bottle upside down or clamp off the line. I think it would drain but you would not be able to fill to correct level. Can the top cap be modified as the 89 B1's were to have a dipstick in it or is there a bearing change inside that would prevent this? What about drilling and tapping to move the plug to the other side of the tower?
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Originally Posted by BadDog
When I change my oil the drive reservoir will empty itself if I do not flip the bottle upside down or clamp off the line. I think it would drain but you would not be able to fill to correct level. Can the top cap be modified as the 89 B1's were to have a dipstick in it or is there a bearing change inside that would prevent this? What about drilling and tapping to move the plug to the other side of the tower?
Mark
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Originally Posted by hi-perf-2000
why not drill an access hole in the bracket so you can get to the screw??
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Mark
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You do not need to remove the top vent plug to drain the oil. The reserve tank will allow the oil to drain. If you are changing over to Shock proof heavy let it drain for a day or so and run the drive up and let set 30min or so the run it back down. This helps shed the oil off of surfaces/compartments inside the drive. You will never get all of it out but this helps a little.
When filling keep and eye on the reserve as soon as you see oil entering stop and wait for it to stop rising in the reserve. Then top of reserve and you are done.
Rick
When filling keep and eye on the reserve as soon as you see oil entering stop and wait for it to stop rising in the reserve. Then top of reserve and you are done.
Rick
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Originally Posted by rv
You do not need to remove the top vent plug to drain the oil. The reserve tank will allow the oil to drain. If you are changing over to Shock proof heavy let it drain for a day or so and run the drive up and let set 30min or so the run it back down. This helps shed the oil off of surfaces/compartments inside the drive. You will never get all of it out but this helps a little.
When filling keep and eye on the reserve as soon as you see oil entering stop and wait for it to stop rising in the reserve. Then top of reserve and you are done.
Rick
When filling keep and eye on the reserve as soon as you see oil entering stop and wait for it to stop rising in the reserve. Then top of reserve and you are done.
Rick
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Mark