Dual water pickup with high x demension?
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
![Default](/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Im looking at maybe buying a xz drive with a dual water pickup for the kryptonite which has a high x demension.and was wondering if it would loose some water out of the top holes and loose preasure.so i did a search and see that people with high x dimensions are plugging the upper holes to get more preasure.the bravo that was on it had a low water pickup and the motor is procharged with a innercooler so it needs water a good amount of water to feed the innercooler.not sure what would be the best way to set this up.the boat doesnt have a water preasure gauge and there really is no where left to mount one on the dash.
#2
Official OSO boat whore
![](https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/images/icons/charter_member_star.gif)
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Mequon, WI
Posts: 6,157
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The drive is not capable of supplying both the engine and the intercooler. You also don't want the intercooler to be receiving a continuous supply of water, it only needs water when the boat is moving. Plumb the intercooler into the drive and the engine into a transom pickup. This way, the engine is less likely to suck up mud when it's grounded. Merc when to the mid pickup for this reason. If the holes are above the water, it won't matter as much to the intercooler as it does to the engine. Nevertheless, it's pretty easy to close them off. Just use some JB Weld. Build the epoxy up on the outside, trying to get the profile close to the final shape. Knock down the high spots with some 80 grit and then fill and paint. If you want the holes back later, you just need to heat the stuff with a propane torch and it'll release.
#3
Registered
![Default](/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I ran only the IC off of the drive last year with dual pickups and high X and it barely supplied enough water. Most ran out the top holes. I ran the motor off of a transom mount pick up and fought sporadic water pressure caused by the stepped hull the entire year.
I have since gone to the drive only for both. I plugged the upper holes and enlarged the four nose holes to 5/16 which is equivalent to the single 5/8 found on the IMCOs.
First time out I pegged the pressure gauge at 60+ lbs at 3500-4000 rpm. This was remedied by installing a Merc pressure relief valve that dumps a steady 1” stream of water on top of my out drive when blowing off. Now I have a constant 25 lbs in the block at anything above 3500 rpm with water dumping out the relief and IC.
Also to help keep cold water flowing thru the block at idle and to keep the air temp at idle reasonable, I installed a 5 lb check valve on the outlet of the IC. I get no water thru the IC until I start to plane and still maintain 3 lbs of block pressure at idle.
At WOT I maintain 120-125* watertemp which is thermostatically controlled with a 120* thermostat.
I do however have the drawback of picking up crap in shallow water
Hope this helps,
Dave
I have since gone to the drive only for both. I plugged the upper holes and enlarged the four nose holes to 5/16 which is equivalent to the single 5/8 found on the IMCOs.
First time out I pegged the pressure gauge at 60+ lbs at 3500-4000 rpm. This was remedied by installing a Merc pressure relief valve that dumps a steady 1” stream of water on top of my out drive when blowing off. Now I have a constant 25 lbs in the block at anything above 3500 rpm with water dumping out the relief and IC.
Also to help keep cold water flowing thru the block at idle and to keep the air temp at idle reasonable, I installed a 5 lb check valve on the outlet of the IC. I get no water thru the IC until I start to plane and still maintain 3 lbs of block pressure at idle.
At WOT I maintain 120-125* watertemp which is thermostatically controlled with a 120* thermostat.
I do however have the drawback of picking up crap in shallow water
![Frown](/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Hope this helps,
Dave