Bravo 1 G-bearing and u-joint inspection
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Bravo 1 G-bearing and u-joint inspection
I have a 1998 Bravo 1 with 100 hours and hear rattling in the drive when I flush the engine run on the water hose. I held the exhaust butterflies but still hear something odd. I would really rather check this out before I damage something.
I would like to examine the u-joints and gimbal bearing and want to know what will need to be loosened or removed to back the drives out far enough to take a peek. What will I have to do, beyond removing the 4 bolts and making sure there is enough slack in the drive oil reservior? I would rather not drain the drives (just changed fluid 2 hours ago) or remove more stuff than necessary.
Thanks
I would like to examine the u-joints and gimbal bearing and want to know what will need to be loosened or removed to back the drives out far enough to take a peek. What will I have to do, beyond removing the 4 bolts and making sure there is enough slack in the drive oil reservior? I would rather not drain the drives (just changed fluid 2 hours ago) or remove more stuff than necessary.
Thanks
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Re: Bravo 1 G-bearing and u-joint inspection
If you want to do it right pull the drive right off.It is a lot easier with two people.Take the trim cylinders off undo the six nuts on the outdrive,make sure you unhook the speedo line and pull the drive off.You wiil lose some gear lube when you pull the drive but there is a valve in the line from the remote reservoir that will cut the oil supply off,pull the drive and inspect the u joints the gimbal is up in the transom.I can't imagine you need a gimbal at 100 hrs. unless it ran dry without grease.
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Re: Bravo 1 G-bearing and u-joint inspection
I purchased the boat with 100 hours on it and it currently has 107. The zerk fittings looked as if they had been serviced but I added a bunch more grease, just in case. I filled the external zerk on the housing and the 2 that spin on the inside (I think they lube the yoke splines). I never saw gease squirting out as a result of the g-bearing zerk but stopped adding to the splines when I saw it starting to ooze out.
Looks like a Saturday project ... pull the drive for a look!
Thanks
Looks like a Saturday project ... pull the drive for a look!
Thanks
#4
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Re: Bravo 1 G-bearing and u-joint inspection
L9X25,
I assume you have the drives in the level position, if not you could be hearing the ujoints rattling from too much angle. If they are in a level position on the hose. Put your hand on the top of the case and see if you feel anything. Now becareful!!! The prop may be turning and exhaust fumes.. etc. Just a quick hand on the top and feel for some vibrations. Could be the shift yoke bouncing up and down some. Could be a linkage adjustment or something in the drive. If you could have someone putting a bit of pressure on the shifter, or shift it into gear as it idles slowly, if the noise or vibration, goes away, then it could be in that mechanizim. Dont put it into gear slowly, just a little bit of presure on the shifter to move the linkage and move the shifter fork a bit. If the rattle goes away then that is the source of the noise.
Dick
hope this helps.
To look at the ujoints, pull the drive all the way off like Burnsmazz said. Look for anything loose. The ujoints are pretty tough, I havent seen too many of them fail as of yet.
I assume you have the drives in the level position, if not you could be hearing the ujoints rattling from too much angle. If they are in a level position on the hose. Put your hand on the top of the case and see if you feel anything. Now becareful!!! The prop may be turning and exhaust fumes.. etc. Just a quick hand on the top and feel for some vibrations. Could be the shift yoke bouncing up and down some. Could be a linkage adjustment or something in the drive. If you could have someone putting a bit of pressure on the shifter, or shift it into gear as it idles slowly, if the noise or vibration, goes away, then it could be in that mechanizim. Dont put it into gear slowly, just a little bit of presure on the shifter to move the linkage and move the shifter fork a bit. If the rattle goes away then that is the source of the noise.
Dick
hope this helps.
To look at the ujoints, pull the drive all the way off like Burnsmazz said. Look for anything loose. The ujoints are pretty tough, I havent seen too many of them fail as of yet.
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Re: Bravo 1 G-bearing and u-joint inspection
As many others have commented, I NEVER hear any noise in the water, only on the hose.
Many years ago I had a big block jet boat with a Berkley drive that acted similar. Out of the water, without load, the "drive slop" would make a rattling noise that sounded like irratic binding and is similar to what I am hearing. I assume that, if something were critically wrong, I would hear the rattle in the water too. I will likely pull the drive off Saturday and take a peek. My curiosity will not be satisfied until I see for myself.
Many years ago I had a big block jet boat with a Berkley drive that acted similar. Out of the water, without load, the "drive slop" would make a rattling noise that sounded like irratic binding and is similar to what I am hearing. I assume that, if something were critically wrong, I would hear the rattle in the water too. I will likely pull the drive off Saturday and take a peek. My curiosity will not be satisfied until I see for myself.
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Re: Bravo 1 G-bearing and u-joint inspection
L9X25,
An experienced Mercury drive mechanic told me "nothing to worry about" ... all bravos do this. It used to concern me too, but I never had any problems with the drives on my Formula 311 with 650 H.P. The XR's on my 382 rattle a little, too. One had pre-existing damage from 950 H.P. and a heavy-handed previous owner, but was not the cause of the rattle.
Pull the bottom plug to check your drive lube for metal shavings. You don't have to drain it all ... just look at the initial spurt. If lube is clear green and no metal shavings or very little fuzz on the magnetic plug, no need to worry.
An experienced Mercury drive mechanic told me "nothing to worry about" ... all bravos do this. It used to concern me too, but I never had any problems with the drives on my Formula 311 with 650 H.P. The XR's on my 382 rattle a little, too. One had pre-existing damage from 950 H.P. and a heavy-handed previous owner, but was not the cause of the rattle.
Pull the bottom plug to check your drive lube for metal shavings. You don't have to drain it all ... just look at the initial spurt. If lube is clear green and no metal shavings or very little fuzz on the magnetic plug, no need to worry.
Last edited by RedDog382; 09-18-2004 at 12:46 PM.