alpha shift problem :(
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01-09-2002, 01:38 PM
#25
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Jim that's my guess what's wrong.He said he bent the shift arm.You have to go easy with the alpha,those parts are fragile.There's only three things that won't let the alpha drive shift(unless the gears are broken).The interupter ,spool,& shift crank.Good luck Doug 
01-09-2002, 02:53 PM
#26
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Doug,
You forgot the adjustable stud I mentioned above. That changes the throw on the cable going to the drive. I've had this cause the drive to go into forward but not reverse. Adjust the stud, get more throw and presto, she goes into both gears. Problem is we got no feedback from Bajarunner as to if any of these are the culprit or if they have been eliminated as potential causes of his problem. No point in tearing down the drive unless the easy fixes are eliminated first.
You forgot the adjustable stud I mentioned above. That changes the throw on the cable going to the drive. I've had this cause the drive to go into forward but not reverse. Adjust the stud, get more throw and presto, she goes into both gears. Problem is we got no feedback from Bajarunner as to if any of these are the culprit or if they have been eliminated as potential causes of his problem. No point in tearing down the drive unless the easy fixes are eliminated first.
01-09-2002, 05:08 PM
#27
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Baja try this
ADJUSTMENT OF LOWER SHIFT CABLE
1)Be sure the PRE-SET 6" length from tip hole to barrell (center to center) has beeen set (see cable installation) do not change.
2)Remove the forward shift cable from the shift arm assy.
3)Put shift box into forward gear.
4)Test feel the movement of the spring-loaded metal piece that trips the easy shift switch.
5)It should move freely from stop to stop with no resistance except the return spring pressure.
6)It should stay in the center with the switch roller in the middle of the valey on the end of the metal arm.
7)When pushed either way it should feel only light spring pressure to the stop.
8)Move the shift arm with the lower shift cable attached to colapse the cable to its shortest position (fwd gear)
9)While moving the cable to its shortest positon the prop must be rorated ccw to the stop.
10)When the prop is jamed against the stop ccw and the cable compressed this is full forward position.
11)With the arm in the above position adjust the forward cable barrell to just fit between the studs.
12)All slack should be eliminated but excess tightness will unseat the roller on the easy shift switch(not good).
13)Ideally the roller should stay in the center but if you move the metal bar that operates the easy switch you feel pressure.
14)By pressure I mean you are forcing the cable before you hit the stop, it feels different than steps 4&5.
15)this is the forward adjustment.
16)To adjust reverse, Remove the tip of the lower cable from the stud on the tip.
17)Shift control into reverse gear.
18)Pull on the tip of the luwer cable while turning the prop cw to the stop.
19)This is full reverse position.
20)Move the stud that the cable mounts to up or down the slot to fit the cable, do not shorten the cable to fit the stud.
21)IF THE STUD RUNS OUT BEFORE THE CABLE IS TIGHT THERE ARE THREE POSSIBLE REASONS.
22)If you put it as tight as it goes and it feels almost tight enough, you can back off of forward to balance the adj.
23If rev is so loose there are four possible reasons.
24)#1 slack in the shift chain of linkage(bad cable, loose connection between parts, or old lower shift shaft, loose slide)
25)To check for the above problems put the lower cable in full forward stand on the brop blade to lock the shifter.
26) In this condition the shift cable should move very little, if you can slide it any distance something is giving or shifting.
27)Determine what two parts are making the slack and replace them.
28)#2 Not enough travel in shift arm. If the cable adjustment in 20 is not far off drill a new hole in the arm to accept the stud.
29#3Problems in the shift box up front. Many shift boxes have adjustments to make them universal.
30)Sometimes people use the wrong adjustment shortening the travel of the box.
31)The general rule is this for lack of travel. check if the arm behind the shifter that holds the shift cable is in two pieces.
32)if it is in two pieces be sure it is fuilly extended. The farther out the cable is mounted the farther it travels.
33)Some arms are multiple drilled, make sure the cable is in the outermost holeor is there room to drill another further out?
34)If the tests in lines 24-27 do not indicate a problem then the other adjustments in the box and arm should correct shifting.
Jim I still bet what I posted earlier is the problem.He said he knew how to adjust the cable in his first post. Doug
[ 01-09-2002: Message edited by: Dixie Doug ]
ADJUSTMENT OF LOWER SHIFT CABLE
1)Be sure the PRE-SET 6" length from tip hole to barrell (center to center) has beeen set (see cable installation) do not change.
2)Remove the forward shift cable from the shift arm assy.
3)Put shift box into forward gear.
4)Test feel the movement of the spring-loaded metal piece that trips the easy shift switch.
5)It should move freely from stop to stop with no resistance except the return spring pressure.
6)It should stay in the center with the switch roller in the middle of the valey on the end of the metal arm.
7)When pushed either way it should feel only light spring pressure to the stop.
8)Move the shift arm with the lower shift cable attached to colapse the cable to its shortest position (fwd gear)
9)While moving the cable to its shortest positon the prop must be rorated ccw to the stop.
10)When the prop is jamed against the stop ccw and the cable compressed this is full forward position.
11)With the arm in the above position adjust the forward cable barrell to just fit between the studs.
12)All slack should be eliminated but excess tightness will unseat the roller on the easy shift switch(not good).
13)Ideally the roller should stay in the center but if you move the metal bar that operates the easy switch you feel pressure.
14)By pressure I mean you are forcing the cable before you hit the stop, it feels different than steps 4&5.
15)this is the forward adjustment.
16)To adjust reverse, Remove the tip of the lower cable from the stud on the tip.
17)Shift control into reverse gear.
18)Pull on the tip of the luwer cable while turning the prop cw to the stop.
19)This is full reverse position.
20)Move the stud that the cable mounts to up or down the slot to fit the cable, do not shorten the cable to fit the stud.
21)IF THE STUD RUNS OUT BEFORE THE CABLE IS TIGHT THERE ARE THREE POSSIBLE REASONS.
22)If you put it as tight as it goes and it feels almost tight enough, you can back off of forward to balance the adj.
23If rev is so loose there are four possible reasons.
24)#1 slack in the shift chain of linkage(bad cable, loose connection between parts, or old lower shift shaft, loose slide)
25)To check for the above problems put the lower cable in full forward stand on the brop blade to lock the shifter.
26) In this condition the shift cable should move very little, if you can slide it any distance something is giving or shifting.
27)Determine what two parts are making the slack and replace them.
28)#2 Not enough travel in shift arm. If the cable adjustment in 20 is not far off drill a new hole in the arm to accept the stud.
29#3Problems in the shift box up front. Many shift boxes have adjustments to make them universal.
30)Sometimes people use the wrong adjustment shortening the travel of the box.
31)The general rule is this for lack of travel. check if the arm behind the shifter that holds the shift cable is in two pieces.
32)if it is in two pieces be sure it is fuilly extended. The farther out the cable is mounted the farther it travels.
33)Some arms are multiple drilled, make sure the cable is in the outermost holeor is there room to drill another further out?
34)If the tests in lines 24-27 do not indicate a problem then the other adjustments in the box and arm should correct shifting.
Jim I still bet what I posted earlier is the problem.He said he knew how to adjust the cable in his first post. Doug
[ 01-09-2002: Message edited by: Dixie Doug ]
01-13-2002, 09:36 PM
#29
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Alright...I finally got off my ass and got out in the cold. First thing I did was look at the part that I thought was binding. I compared it with the other side and IT IS sticking.
The drive would never (since bending that part) shift into gear easily.
I think its that part.'
Now should I
A) Take a hammer and beat it back straight
or
B) buy a new part
If the answer is B, how do you go about changing that part. It is the piece that lines up with the bellhousing part for the shifter. Hmm if you dont understand that I will try to go into more explination
Also, Does that sound like it is the problem? Seems like it to me.
Thanks for all your answers and time
Jason
The drive would never (since bending that part) shift into gear easily.
I think its that part.'
Now should I
A) Take a hammer and beat it back straight
or
B) buy a new part
If the answer is B, how do you go about changing that part. It is the piece that lines up with the bellhousing part for the shifter. Hmm if you dont understand that I will try to go into more explination
Also, Does that sound like it is the problem? Seems like it to me.
Thanks for all your answers and time
Jason
