bravo 1 clutch question
#1
Guest
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bravo 1 clutch question
Can a clutch slip at all in a bravo 1 and cause rpms to raise higher. 1 engine runs 300 rpm's higher at midrange and 600 rpm's at WOT. Was curious because it is starting to bam into gear. And today it took longer to get into gear than has been about 5-10 seconds. one time today I had to bump the throttle for it to grab. but the next time it went in ok. The going into gear started today and the rpm's difference has been going on and still trying to figure it out and was wondering if this could be the problem. Thanks for all replies
#4
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
Re: bravo 1 clutch question
You name it, it can do it. Depends on your "damage" as to which symptom it can display.
A 300 rpm slip at cruise speed and a 600 rpm slip at wot, sound pretty odd. In all honesty, that sounds more like a damaged prop blade or something. WOT slippage is usually a "runaway", not a few hundred rpm.
Your delayed shifting could be as simple as a cable adjustment, a broken shift arm pivot, etc..
OR it could be more significant. The symptoms need described VERY CLEARLY to be able to do a long distance diagnosis.
A 300 rpm slip at cruise speed and a 600 rpm slip at wot, sound pretty odd. In all honesty, that sounds more like a damaged prop blade or something. WOT slippage is usually a "runaway", not a few hundred rpm.
Your delayed shifting could be as simple as a cable adjustment, a broken shift arm pivot, etc..
OR it could be more significant. The symptoms need described VERY CLEARLY to be able to do a long distance diagnosis.
#5
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Re: bravo 1 clutch question
The symptoms on this boat are unreal been trying to figure out the rpm thing for months now. I bought the boat with several problems and this being one of them. And since I have had it it seemed to go into forward kinda hard (hard being kinda of a cluck sound) and yesterday it started to not go into forward it took it a bit then all of a sudden it would go in, but didnt do it everytime I put it into gear just once in awhile. That lead me to believe after reading several post that maybe the clutch is going bad causing it to slip and causing that engine to run higher rpms. But that isnt my luck. Thanks alot for the replies
#6
Toxic FORMULA
Platinum Member
Re: bravo 1 clutch question
I had a difference in engine speeds. It turned out to be part timing and part throttle cable adjustment.. They're both the same now
#7
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Fife washingtont
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Re: bravo 1 clutch question
Not Likely That The Clutch Is Slipping In The Drive. If It Is Not Working Usually It Is A Go Or No Go Situation. Check Prop Hub For Starters, Engine Coupler.
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: bravo 1 clutch question
Well broke down the drive today and the needle bearing on the clutch gear has gone bad causeing the thrust bearing and shim to break. thats all the damage that I have seen. There was a little foam in some spots not very much at all is this normal for bravo 1's. gear all is merc high perm lube(the green stuff) only had 7 hours on it tops. Also wen to order the parts today I can get everything but the bearing inside the clutch gear. They was telling me it only comes with the gear, which is insane because it seperates because I have it out and the part # on bearing is a torrington b-3216 which made no sense why the dealer doesnt show it. any insight on this as well thanks alot.
#10
Charter Member #601
Charter Member
Re: bravo 1 clutch question
tm29,
The foaming isnt a problem so long is there is no water in the oil. When you drained it did you see any metalic glow to the oil. I usually drain into a big drain pan and pass a speaker magnet underneath to see how much metal is in the oil. That tells me if I need to look real good at the tapered bearing surfaces. Any dents or score marks and they get replaced.
The 3216 bearing can be had at any good bearing place. There are two kinds the caged and uncaged. The debate rages on as to which is better than the other. I use the uncaged that Merc uses. The newer X gears uses a 3214 bearing which is very hard to come by, almost impossible and you have to buy a new gear to get it. To remove the old bearing, I cut the edge of the bearing cage and then use a torch to heat a line from top to bottom, cherry red, when it cools you can pull that bearing shell out.
If that bearing is damaged, I would automatically replace the bearing race on the tower, that takes a special tool to remove and replace.
Hope that helps!! Any questions you can email me.. or call 616-335-8446 after 6pm during the week..
Dick
PS I run Royal Purple in my drive and it holds up very good.
The foaming isnt a problem so long is there is no water in the oil. When you drained it did you see any metalic glow to the oil. I usually drain into a big drain pan and pass a speaker magnet underneath to see how much metal is in the oil. That tells me if I need to look real good at the tapered bearing surfaces. Any dents or score marks and they get replaced.
The 3216 bearing can be had at any good bearing place. There are two kinds the caged and uncaged. The debate rages on as to which is better than the other. I use the uncaged that Merc uses. The newer X gears uses a 3214 bearing which is very hard to come by, almost impossible and you have to buy a new gear to get it. To remove the old bearing, I cut the edge of the bearing cage and then use a torch to heat a line from top to bottom, cherry red, when it cools you can pull that bearing shell out.
If that bearing is damaged, I would automatically replace the bearing race on the tower, that takes a special tool to remove and replace.
Hope that helps!! Any questions you can email me.. or call 616-335-8446 after 6pm during the week..
Dick
PS I run Royal Purple in my drive and it holds up very good.