Linster

Not sure with that pan. You can reuse the pickup in the current pump. That is more than likely a slip in that is brazed or welded. If welded, it can tough tp get off. The 10777 pump is threaded for the pick up but I have opened them up with a drill and used slip in pickups. I braze the entire circle on the pickup to keep any leaking. Most welding supply houses carry a steel to cast brazing rod. Make sure the spring is out when you put heat. Seperate the body from the cap also. The 10770 is a slip pickup version of the same pump.

Jeggs sells a 8" & 9" pickup. To measure, sit your oil pan up right on the bottom. Put a straight edge over the rails where the picup will set. Measure down to the bottom of the pan. That will tell you the pickup height. Keep pickup at least 3/8" off bottom of the pan. That is usually built into the pickup.

I know a few people who block off the bypass. With he 30PSI bypass, before the bypass will open, you must have that much difference in the pressure from the outlet leading to the cooler & filter to make the bypass open. You have to have a serious blockage to have that happen. I still agree with tomcat, dirty oil is better that no oil.

Strip Poker 388

I talked to Moroso and they use to buy the pumps from Dana gear, Melling bought them out last year , They said the Moroso pumps will be a Melling pump.

I called melling they recommended the 10778 which has the steel gear and shaft, the shaft goes thru the bottom housing,and come with a special oil pump drive shaft . it is the same dimension as the 77hv and and will fit the slip fit pick up. prob is nobody stocks it. Scoggins in TX can drop ship it 69.99 plus 9 ship.He said they test every pump ,test for 30psi at idle and dead head [by pass] at 70psi

He also commented on the one's with a c in the part # meaning it has the anti cavitation gruves , he said it was for racing only and will only have 10 psi at idle

I have run the Moroso pumps before and never had a low oil pressure, Idle was 30 cold and about 20 hot.

Mark or Mike did ya come up with anything?

Strip Poker 388

The old blower motor

http://members.aol.com/precshun1/dyno.wav

Strip Poker 388

Making some head way ,finished deburing the block ,Will post somemore picks on the block wed.I spent 6 hours on the 2 blocks Sunday

There cking head flow tues , well see

Rob

Strip Poker 388

My Old motor in the garage .A true blower crank

Strip Poker 388

Here is a pick of the rod ,No bushing . so its a floating pin style piston with no bronze bushing , some where starting to gall and all of them had slack . The tops of the piston on the side in the 3-9 o'clock position where starting to scuff from the slack.Mark at Precision Marine said he cant believe it did not come apart.Maybe alittle piston slap [noise].Lucky again

I priced out what had to be done to the rods -new rod bolts,then resize,install bushings and beam polish the rods and it ended up being close to a new set of H beam Eagles where .I know there a jap rod and they machine them here,but I figure its a little stronger than the stock 7/16 dimple rods.

Labor on the rods was about 250.00 and jobber on theEagle rods was 350.00.Jegs get 499.00 and I can get them for 309.00 a set .so jegs is making over 200.00 So I am getting the Eagles and double ck there clearances when I get them.I been told to ck them by everybody

Strip Poker 388

Here's the flow #'s on the heads. The heads looked like they had a little bowl work on the intake and very mild on the begining of the intake runner.

The exhaust seats was ruff, still had the ridges on the seat on top and below the seat. it has some bowl work and alittel guide boss and just smothing on the roof.

These #'s are with the old valve job. He said from his expereance it about a 10% increase over stock on the heads. On his sheet he put 2.19 and I think its 2.25, just a typo I guess,I figure Ill go up to the 1.900 on the exhaust and leave the 2.250 on the intake.

I figure Ill clean them up ,they left the rocker stud boss in the intake and the dimple on the exhaust. Ill just smooth them some and polish the exhaust . The combustion chambers are ruff ,I ll take out the seat ridges ,deshroud and polish them up,I have cut down 2 dummy valves for when I am cutting in there as not to hit the seats I have a buddy thats got a buret tube /try to make sure the all close.

I guess all this doesent matter with the blower except the combustion chambers,Its fun though

Strip Poker 388

I have a buddy here thats a Procharger dealer and he trying to talk me into them .He claims everybody has had problems with the Whipples, The procharger is alot cheaper than the Whipples, Alot! about 2 k each.
I talked to Dustin about the kits and what comes with them and he was alittle short and vague.I wanted to know in detail what it comes with it.

At my Buddy's shop I have helped him install the prochargers so I know what comes with them.you still have to make brackets for the inner cooler and also other stuff

I realize that the whipple comes with more stuff also.

On this board I have heard most of the troubles have been with the prochargers.

On the Whipples I have heard they had problems on the programing of the ECM's,But I think I got that covered with Mark at Precision Marine.

what do yall think?

Rob

Linster

On our poker run last year two boats showed up with Whipple's. A 388 just like yours and a 43 Black Thunder. When it was time to leave the docks, the 43 had one engine that would not run right, loading up, sounded like hitting on 5 cylinders. The other engine was puffing smoke out at start up but seemed to clear up after numerous high rev's.
The 388 was being towed to the ramp on the return trip where both motors let go. Not sure what the problem was.

I still like carbs over the EFI's for the simple fact, I can adjust them right away. I think EFI programming should be done live by running the motors installed in the boats, with the programmer on board.

I looked at the Prochargers also. They are cheaper, but I think the are the worst looking set up from appearance stand point. A good roots blower with twin carbs, just looks great.

I 'm not trying to degrade any blower set up. With proper setup, they all work, sometimes it takes extra effort to get the setup correct after following all directions. I think that is why people have complaints in these forums. They followed all the instructions, but they ended up with a setup that needed extra work. Then they were stuck not knowing where to go, what the fix is, and the manufacturer gets the bashing.

I still think a blower is a high maintenance motor, but you get big power when it works, and you get big bills when it brakes.

I can't believe the rods. What a lousy machine shop that would do hat. I've only seen that one other time. I used Eagle rods with very good luck. I always got the L19 rod bolts.

Good Luck

Lmarth

Linster makes a lot of good points,as usual. I'll state up front that I've got no first hand experience with Whipples, Prochargers or EFI in boats( I have been involved in some computer reprogramming of street cars). But I have read the numerous posts on this site. Set up correctly, I'm sure they are all wonderful, but that's a big caveat. Assuming the base motor is compatible with the power that's going to be made, my humble opinion is that these addons to include your common Roots type blowers need to be setup on a dyno. EFI reprogramming, larger capacity injectors etc also require dyno testing. The result will be decent idling and driveability as well as proper fuel/spark timing. How many times have we read where a trial and error approach resulted in holed pistons,etc? Or where stock head gaskets blew out after a kit was installed. When you're making lots of power, bad things happen QUICK! I thank my lucky stars every day that I bought a boat where Sterling had just rebuilt the blown 572's. After 140 hours, the frikken things are like diesels. They start well, idle well, run like turbines and all I've had to do is routine maintenance. When they came off the dyno, they were right! For what it's worth...