Blower Motors And Condensation
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I know that most Blower Motors are running without thermostats or restricters and run very cold but, I've got a question about the condensation that collects under the Valve Covers. I'm getting a substance that has the consistency of white grease. This engine is running on Mobil 1 full synthetic. My question is; Could that be why this looks so different than "normal" condensation?
I assume that it has been like this for some time and that's why there's so much there. This is a new boat to me and I don't usually run full synthetic in my engines.
One other thing. The dipstick looks good. No milk there. Could I have an intake leak?
Thanks,
Bob
I assume that it has been like this for some time and that's why there's so much there. This is a new boat to me and I don't usually run full synthetic in my engines.
One other thing. The dipstick looks good. No milk there. Could I have an intake leak?
Thanks,
Bob
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Geronimo36
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Bob, I think it is normal for you to have a little "milk shake" without having thermostats. The condensation can't burn off in the oil because the oil doesn't get hot enough to start evaporating thru the valve cover breathers.
We just tore down my 572 blower motors and there was some milkshake in them but nothing that would cause a problem.
We just tore down my 572 blower motors and there was some milkshake in them but nothing that would cause a problem.
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Re: Blower Motors And Condensation
I had MRD build me an 800hp sc motor... I initially had the milk shake problem..
It was corrected by using a thermostically controlled oil filter.... I believe it was a mercury part and I know Keith Eckert + Teague makes one..
You can't beat the torque and throttle response of a blower motor but the trade off in repairs and reliability wasn't worth it to me... My eyes were always glued to the gauges and I had no peace of mind...
I bought a 29 Fountain 525hp it has turnkey reliability and reqiures the whole inner Great South bay to hit 80mph but I am a happy man...
Good Luck
It was corrected by using a thermostically controlled oil filter.... I believe it was a mercury part and I know Keith Eckert + Teague makes one..
You can't beat the torque and throttle response of a blower motor but the trade off in repairs and reliability wasn't worth it to me... My eyes were always glued to the gauges and I had no peace of mind...
I bought a 29 Fountain 525hp it has turnkey reliability and reqiures the whole inner Great South bay to hit 80mph but I am a happy man...
Good Luck
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Thanks for your inputs guys but, my main concern is not that I have condensation, it's the "white grease " substance that I'm confused about. I just didn't know if that was a by product of Synthetic oil or what it was. This stuff looks different than the "normal" milk shake that you have with conventional oil. Is that what the difference is?
Bob
Bob
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Mr. Oneil,
Just a thought. Mine always had alot of water droplets within the condensation whenever I had it. Also will cake itself onto the bottom of the intake and in the lifter galley. Dipstick would never show signs of it since it stays to the top end of the motor. I'm thinking that might not be a good thing to have motors sitting all winter with this in there. IN FACT, had a few cam lobes and roller lifters show signs of pitting just from this condition. Also, to expand on the leaking intake theory now that I have thought about this, I doubt it because you have very little water pressure and don't mention anything about oil level raising.
Just a thought. Mine always had alot of water droplets within the condensation whenever I had it. Also will cake itself onto the bottom of the intake and in the lifter galley. Dipstick would never show signs of it since it stays to the top end of the motor. I'm thinking that might not be a good thing to have motors sitting all winter with this in there. IN FACT, had a few cam lobes and roller lifters show signs of pitting just from this condition. Also, to expand on the leaking intake theory now that I have thought about this, I doubt it because you have very little water pressure and don't mention anything about oil level raising.
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As mentioned above,
You need to have an Oil Thermostat with that setup. Oil temperature needs to be at least 160. Too big of an oil cooler can cause your problem as well.
Also use restrictors on the intake outlet. Get it so the water temperature reads between 110-120. Do not run it hard over 130. I had to change the restrictor size to the small in fall months. Medium is a Good start. Jeggs sells them for about $12.
How close are you on the boost level. Low compression & low boost with that set up will not build any engine heat.
You must get rid of the milk. It will kill the bearings. FAST! Do not let anyone tell you milk is OK in the oil.
You need to have an Oil Thermostat with that setup. Oil temperature needs to be at least 160. Too big of an oil cooler can cause your problem as well.
Also use restrictors on the intake outlet. Get it so the water temperature reads between 110-120. Do not run it hard over 130. I had to change the restrictor size to the small in fall months. Medium is a Good start. Jeggs sells them for about $12.
How close are you on the boost level. Low compression & low boost with that set up will not build any engine heat.
You must get rid of the milk. It will kill the bearings. FAST! Do not let anyone tell you milk is OK in the oil.
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That white grease like substance is most likely from the Mobil 1. Being that synthetic is just highly refined conventional oil, the grease is the way it is for the same reason. Additionally you should see oil temp of atleast 210, since the evaporation temp of the water in your v.c's is just over that, hence you'll be able to "cook" the water content out of your upper half. Imagine what the bottom of your intake look's like.
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