10x

Jeff... You take the measurements from the very bottom of the boat, (the V). If your shafts are within an inch above the bottom V in line with the shaft, then I'd have to say that that's just about where you need to be.
Whoever set up that boat for the 1st time using the SSM#5's with the boxes, I'd say did a pretty good job.

If you add any spacers now, and put the props in deeper, I'd have to bet that you'll see a loss in speed.

Now you need to start trying some different props.
What are the drive ratio's? Don't remember if you said earlier, sorry, 1.48's ( we usually round that # to just 1.5's for easy speakin)
What's your prop diameter? I see you're running 5 blades.
What's the pitch?
What rpm are you turning at WOT? and what speed?
Did you dyno the engines? What hp @ what rpm, and what torque at what rpm?
These are ALL factors that you need to consider when selecting your props
Also, is there ANY kind of a hook in the bottom of the hull? I would think that the hull has been blueprinted at the factory before it left. If not, that's another area that you may want to look into.

Bottom line here: I don't think that for the cost of switching over to a dry #6 that you will see a noticable difference. Atleast not for what it's gonna cost you. But, if $$$$$ not a problem here then go for it, I'm sure you will pick up a few mph, done properly.

Jassman

At the very bottom of the v makes the center of the prop appr. 6-7" high, and 1" or 2" will help getting on plane and possibly wont decrease speed. What Im trying to also improve is where the water is in relationship to the hull when trimmed up, its right around the drivers seat, the water needs to be more towards the transom, I think that also is affecting top end. Correct if Im wrong, by putting a spacer in that lowers the props, helps plane up, but also cause of the boxes, places the props further out so when trimmed up I will get more leverage which will increase top end. Thanks Again Jeff

10x

Jeff, I think I understand what you mean. But, remember, if the props go too deep, then you will start lifting the stern and the boat will start bow steering.
I really think you might want to look at the bottom of the boat. From what you're saying, it sounds like the drives are pretty close to being in the right place. But if the boat is breaking water at the driver's seat when you're trimmed out, then that's saying that the drives are too deep already cause you're starting to lift the stern, OR, there might be somewhat of a slight hook in the bottom of the hull and that's what's keeping the nose from lifting.

Don't know what kind of HP you're running, or the weight of your hull, but it takes alot of HP to "carry" the nose of a heavy boat, up in the air.

This gets way too complicated to type, if you'd like to give me a call I'd be more than happy to tell you some of the similiar problems we've had with customers boats that had similiar problems as yours.
Frank.....708-579-5434

Jassman

Thanks for the help Frank, apprieciate it.

Gary thanks for your help as well, I will be needing more than 1" spacer, probably 2-3", Ill let you know once Im at Nortech, and find out what they have, maybe they will have a 2" and combine it with yours, thanks Jeff

CignificantOther

Hey Jeff:

I'll trade you my # 6's for your # 5's. Then, if needed, get my # 6's modified to dry sump units. I even have different spacers to go with them. You pay for the labor......

Sounds like your COG is too far forward with that fancy cabin and mine is possibly too far to the rear.

SK-190

If you're looking for more bow lift, how much bow lift could be gained by changing to some props with more rake?

Just trying to learn.

Jassman

Might be a possibility, and the beauty is we are only miles apart. When I get back from Nortech I will let you know, Thanks Jeff