44MTI

Exactly the same as they forward, GREAT.They only actuate when you apply the brakes, Which is really nice when unloading on a steep wet ramp, You can stop very easily anywhere because all the weight is right over the tires, and no sliding or slipping.

CcanDo

just a couple of thoughts;subject to the distance from the electric/hydraulic control to the axles you may need 5/16" stainless steel brake line.Distibution at the axles should be 3/16" or 1/4"stainless steel brake line.Again,subject to the distance,the control oriface may need to be oversized 5/16". The hose from the control to the brake line should be high pressure non expandable.But,when you make this conversion you become the ultimate vendor.Therefore,you may want someone with the proper liability insurance to do the conversion.

MnFastBoat

This sounds all great and everything.
But my surge master is built INTO the tongue
I do not see ANY open lines until back to the axles. All lines are in the frame.
My thought since I am replacing all 3 axles is to convert to total electric.
What is peoples thoughts on this? Take the surge out of the equation all together. Weld the Tongue, install all electric axle brakes.
Problem would be all new wiring. But seems would be easier then cutting into the frame rails to expose the surge lines.

dyno

I think your on to something....

44MTI

The only people I know of who have ran straight electic have had problems with rust and the brakes then not working correctly. They thought it had something to do with the amount of time boat trailers sit around, especially in the off season.
There should be a line coming into your surge somewhere that you can put a union and a short piece of brake line onto to run to the new actuator.All I will say is that will not have a trailer with out elect/hyd.

scottc

Titan coupler #18660 fits 3"wide tongue 20k rating
#21302 same as above but bolt on and 12k rating.
pm me if you need more info

Viper31

I talked to my trailer mfg. today (Rolls Axle) and he tried to steer me away from electric/hydraulic. He said he doesn't think they actuate fast enough for an emergency stop. Knowing that Dan is a perfectionist, I though I would ask you guys who have them what has been your experience when making an emergency stop? I'm considering conversion due to the fact that I have replaced 3 lockout solenoids in 4 years and it really sucks trying to backup using the C-Clamp lockout method on gravel or uphill grade. Those who have experienced this know what I mean. I did find this manual valve today though if anyone wants to try one.

http://shop.easternmarine.com/index....categoryID=155

open wide

I did that in the past and it worked fine. IMO as long as your not launching in salt water, you should be fine. I had my boat like that for two years with no problems, and it was stored outside. All, or most travel trailers have all electric, and they sit around in the offseason with no problems.

open wide

Mine work pretty fast as long as they are bled right. I have had some leakage issues.

CcanDo

Your trailer manufacturer has a vested liability interest in the total trailer design.Technically,when any major change in design is made he is at least partialy released.Who ever makes those changes accepts the responsibility the manufacturer is released from.Therefore,it only may be logical for the manufacturer to not recommend major design change. You mentioned new axles;an 8,000# axle has larger bearings that roll easier,have more torsional rigidity,can accept the correct suspension capacity and will probably have increased braking. Personally,first choice is electric/hydraulic,second choice is surge and last is eletric.Electric has drum brakes and the other two are available with marine coated disc.