Rub Rail Cleaner
#2
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Re: Rub Rail Cleaner
Straight Acetone from Home Depot works great. Keep it away from paint.
#3
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Location: Madison, WI
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Re: Rub Rail Cleaner
My rubrail is just extruded white....the occasional scuff is easily removed with some fine steel wool. I also have used the "bleche-white" stuff for white letter tires and had so-so results. I would not ever use acetone as it's a recipe for disaster. Just my $.02.
#5
Charter Member #1171
Charter Member
Re: Rub Rail Cleaner
Brake clean,, orsoft scrub with bleach
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#7
Ginger or Mary Ann?
Charter Member
Re: Rub Rail Cleaner
Used acetone before with no problem. My boat body shop guy recommended it to me. Just use a lightly damp rag, not soak. Otherwise your insert will become soft and will smudge. Same goes for the rub rail itself. I just replaced my white insert this weekend with new. I thought the old was white. Looked yellow against the new one. I did have a few good scratches in the molding that I used acetone fairly heavy to 'melt' the scratches away. Then followed with 1500 sandpaper and then polished. Like new now.
Best to use something else though for the regular cleaning in my opinion.
I always use Westleys bleach white and a soft brush.
Not sure what caused the yellowing, age, sun, acetone????????
Best to use something else though for the regular cleaning in my opinion.
I always use Westleys bleach white and a soft brush.
Not sure what caused the yellowing, age, sun, acetone????????
#8
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Re: Rub Rail Cleaner
A couple of dumb questions for US1-- Did you install the insert without an extra set of hands? Did you need a heat gun for the bow point and stern corners? Did you need any special hand tools? I've gotta change mine one of these days and would appreciate a few pointers from someone thats been through it. Many thanks...Lou
#9
Ginger or Mary Ann?
Charter Member
Re: Rub Rail Cleaner
Peice of cake. Just takes a little time.
Used a heat gun and a putty knife with the corners rounded off to keep from cutting the insert. The wife heated and held the top lip of the insert in the molding, I followed right behind pushing the bottom lip in using a rolling action with the putty knife an inch at a time. You'll find the right temp to work with easily. Too hot and the insert becomes real rubbery, and will want to come out of the molding when you remove the putty knife and hot the handle. Not hot enough makes for way to much force to install. Just about best to use the gun for the whole process. It took us approx 1 1/2hr for our 32' boat. About 75' of insert. The bow was no problem even with the sharp point.
We did fine just the 2 of us, but a 3rd would have been idea. The 3rd can help hold the insert ahead of the 'heater' as it is a pain to keep orentated in the full lenghts. The wife got tired of trying to hold, position and heat the insert, but was a trooper!
Used a heat gun and a putty knife with the corners rounded off to keep from cutting the insert. The wife heated and held the top lip of the insert in the molding, I followed right behind pushing the bottom lip in using a rolling action with the putty knife an inch at a time. You'll find the right temp to work with easily. Too hot and the insert becomes real rubbery, and will want to come out of the molding when you remove the putty knife and hot the handle. Not hot enough makes for way to much force to install. Just about best to use the gun for the whole process. It took us approx 1 1/2hr for our 32' boat. About 75' of insert. The bow was no problem even with the sharp point.
We did fine just the 2 of us, but a 3rd would have been idea. The 3rd can help hold the insert ahead of the 'heater' as it is a pain to keep orentated in the full lenghts. The wife got tired of trying to hold, position and heat the insert, but was a trooper!