Installing pop-up cleats
#1
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Installing pop-up cleats
I ordered some Accon pop-up cleats and will be installing them soon. I am assuming I just need to use the backing plate as a templete and cut out a matching hole in the deck with a jigsaw. Is there anything else to it that I need to be prepared for? Thanks
#2
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Re: Installing pop-up cleats
Just make sure you have the clearance behind the cleat! No bulkheads, electrical wiring, fuel hoses....etc. Are you installing the ones that have the drain cups? You will need to be able to run the drain line around so it empties into the bilge and not all over the interior of the cabin
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Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower. And I've never seen a sad person hauling a$$!
#3
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Re: Installing pop-up cleats
I always use an airsaw with a hacksaw blade, grind the back of the blade down to enable it to go round tight curves easier, then clean up the cut hole with a dremel!
#4
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Re: Installing pop-up cleats
put down some blue painters masking tape on the deck so you dont scratch it up and keep the gel from chipping on ya too
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-Wally
Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower. And I've never seen a sad person hauling a$$!
-Wally
Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower. And I've never seen a sad person hauling a$$!
#5
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Re: Installing pop-up cleats
Wally,
Ditto on the painter's tape to protect your fiberglass. It will also help prevent "chipout" due to cutting.
Personally, I'd dispense with the airsaw and the jigsaw and use a RotoZip which is basically a Dremel on steroids (sorry Jose and Mark). Make some practice cuts first in some scrap wood or fiberglass if you have access to some. The RotoZip can be a little tricky to control until you have a little practice but it will yield outstanding results.
Think of it as a handheld CNC machine. Your brain is the computer and your hands are the hydraulics. The cost to buy a good model is under $140 and cheaper ones can be had for well under $100. If you get one, you will use it a lot. I wish they would cut metal though.
Ditto on the painter's tape to protect your fiberglass. It will also help prevent "chipout" due to cutting.
Personally, I'd dispense with the airsaw and the jigsaw and use a RotoZip which is basically a Dremel on steroids (sorry Jose and Mark). Make some practice cuts first in some scrap wood or fiberglass if you have access to some. The RotoZip can be a little tricky to control until you have a little practice but it will yield outstanding results.
Think of it as a handheld CNC machine. Your brain is the computer and your hands are the hydraulics. The cost to buy a good model is under $140 and cheaper ones can be had for well under $100. If you get one, you will use it a lot. I wish they would cut metal though.
#6
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Re: Installing pop-up cleats
Put masking tape over where you are going too cut as others have said.
I also recommend using a rotozip tool or equivalent to cut. Do not use a saw, it will hack it up.
I also recommend using a rotozip tool or equivalent to cut. Do not use a saw, it will hack it up.
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#7
Were doomed!
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Re: Installing pop-up cleats
Monty.....if you want to try your hand with a roto-zip i can lend you mine
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-Wally
Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower. And I've never seen a sad person hauling a$$!
-Wally
Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower. And I've never seen a sad person hauling a$$!
#10
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Re: Installing pop-up cleats
You may need more than one blade. Fiberglass and gel coat eat them up fast and pushing a dull blade leaves a bad cut.