I'm a believer!
10-22-2005, 01:54 PM
#11
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Re: I'm a believer!
Hey Boatingbent:
You might be on to something here, if one were to install those new tricyclical exhaust bearings they might even see plus 20mph. They would have to wear those new aerodynamic x-ray vision goggles though to see where they were going!
Ray @ Raylar
You might be on to something here, if one were to install those new tricyclical exhaust bearings they might even see plus 20mph. They would have to wear those new aerodynamic x-ray vision goggles though to see where they were going!
Ray @ Raylar
10-24-2005, 09:41 AM
#13
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Re: I'm a believer!
Originally Posted by Magic Medicine
Is just for the stepped hull boats or is this for all Nordics. Just curious my is a 99 pre step hull.
There are three other Heats here in Nashville, all pre-step, pad vees like yours. They all have a much deeper X dimension. You probably don't have this issue with your's either. By the way, all three of these boats run very well for their respective horsepowers. One has a custom 496 (454) stroker/blower motor, one has a 525SC with intercooler, and one has a stock 502Mag. All three of them have plenty of bow lift. I think it's due more to the deeper XD than the different hull.
Regards,
Steve
Last edited by Steve Zuckerman; 10-29-2005 at 11:30 AM.
11-09-2005, 12:28 PM
#15
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Re: I'm a believer!
Got the drive back together yesterday (thanks Eric), and added a 1" drive spacer, hoping to repeat your #s BobL. Unfortunately, on my boat the #s were exactly the same on top end 85MPH GPS @ 5600RPM with a 28" P5-X. I did have more usable trim range, and it did lower my cruise RPMs by 100 (3600 RPM @ 50MPH). Holeshot was good, but was good anyway before the spacer.
Weather was 80o, 1' chop, light load in the boat.
My conclusions are:
My boat must be pretty close to being dialed in if there wasn't any difference in a 1" lower (18" now) XD.
It still may carry a heavy load a little better.
It may work with 4 blades now, with the prop shaft deeper. 4 blades should be easier to turn, and I have several 30/32 B1s that I will try before I winterize. I'll let you know how it goes.
Regards,
Steve
Weather was 80o, 1' chop, light load in the boat.
My conclusions are:
My boat must be pretty close to being dialed in if there wasn't any difference in a 1" lower (18" now) XD.
It still may carry a heavy load a little better.
It may work with 4 blades now, with the prop shaft deeper. 4 blades should be easier to turn, and I have several 30/32 B1s that I will try before I winterize. I'll let you know how it goes.
Regards,
Steve
Last edited by Steve Zuckerman; 11-09-2005 at 12:31 PM.
11-09-2005, 04:13 PM
#16
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Re: I'm a believer!
Originally Posted by Steve Zuckerman
Got the drive back together yesterday (thanks Eric), and added a 1" drive spacer, hoping to repeat your #s BobL. Unfortunately, on my boat the #s were exactly the same on top end 85MPH GPS @ 5600RPM with a 28" P5-X. I did have more usable trim range, and it did lower my cruise RPMs by 100 (3600 RPM @ 50MPH). Holeshot was good, but was good anyway before the spacer.
Weather was 80o, 1' chop, light load in the boat.
My conclusions are:
My boat must be pretty close to being dialed in if there wasn't any difference in a 1" lower (18" now) XD.
It still may carry a heavy load a little better.
It may work with 4 blades now, with the prop shaft deeper. 4 blades should be easier to turn, and I have several 30/32 B1s that I will try before I winterize. I'll let you know how it goes.
Regards,
Steve
Weather was 80o, 1' chop, light load in the boat.
My conclusions are:
My boat must be pretty close to being dialed in if there wasn't any difference in a 1" lower (18" now) XD.
It still may carry a heavy load a little better.
It may work with 4 blades now, with the prop shaft deeper. 4 blades should be easier to turn, and I have several 30/32 B1s that I will try before I winterize. I'll let you know how it goes.
Regards,
Steve
YUP.....go 4 blade I bet you will see a difference
11-10-2005, 10:57 AM
#17
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Re: I'm a believer!
Steve,
If you get a chance, measure the distance from the bottom of the transom notch to the bottom of the transom housing.
I have an old list in Excel that myself, Steve (Indy), RV, Toby , Rick Young etc…all took this measurement.
The interesting thing with this old data log (yes, we do keep data logs ;o) is this; all of the measurements (11) came in at 6-7/8” except RV’s 1997, which was an older non stepped hull, and Toby’s (yours) 2001. I have those two listed at 4-7/8” meaning the X dimension on RVs and yours was 2” lower. Could you verify your measurement when you get time? It is an old spreadsheet
If this “is” the case, you may looking at a 1” shorty to get to what we are considering 1” lower
Note: The ITS has no relation to these measurements.
Toby tried the 1” spacer on your set up with only a 4 blade to test and it showed zero improvement anywhere.
Let me know,
Dave
If you get a chance, measure the distance from the bottom of the transom notch to the bottom of the transom housing.
I have an old list in Excel that myself, Steve (Indy), RV, Toby , Rick Young etc…all took this measurement.
The interesting thing with this old data log (yes, we do keep data logs ;o) is this; all of the measurements (11) came in at 6-7/8” except RV’s 1997, which was an older non stepped hull, and Toby’s (yours) 2001. I have those two listed at 4-7/8” meaning the X dimension on RVs and yours was 2” lower. Could you verify your measurement when you get time? It is an old spreadsheet
If this “is” the case, you may looking at a 1” shorty to get to what we are considering 1” lower
Note: The ITS has no relation to these measurements.
Toby tried the 1” spacer on your set up with only a 4 blade to test and it showed zero improvement anywhere.
Let me know,
Dave
11-10-2005, 09:04 PM
#18
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Re: I'm a believer!
Originally Posted by Nordicflame
Steve,
If you get a chance, measure the distance from the bottom of the transom notch to the bottom of the transom housing.
I have an old list in Excel that myself, Steve (Indy), RV, Toby , Rick Young etc…all took this measurement.
The interesting thing with this old data log (yes, we do keep data logs ;o) is this; all of the measurements (11) came in at 6-7/8” except RV’s 1997, which was an older non stepped hull, and Toby’s (yours) 2001. I have those two listed at 4-7/8” meaning the X dimension on RVs and yours was 2” lower. Could you verify your measurement when you get time? It is an old spreadsheet
If this “is” the case, you may looking at a 1” shorty to get to what we are considering 1” lower
Note: The ITS has no relation to these measurements.
Toby tried the 1” spacer on your set up with only a 4 blade to test and it showed zero improvement anywhere.
Let me know,
Dave
If you get a chance, measure the distance from the bottom of the transom notch to the bottom of the transom housing.
I have an old list in Excel that myself, Steve (Indy), RV, Toby , Rick Young etc…all took this measurement.
The interesting thing with this old data log (yes, we do keep data logs ;o) is this; all of the measurements (11) came in at 6-7/8” except RV’s 1997, which was an older non stepped hull, and Toby’s (yours) 2001. I have those two listed at 4-7/8” meaning the X dimension on RVs and yours was 2” lower. Could you verify your measurement when you get time? It is an old spreadsheet
If this “is” the case, you may looking at a 1” shorty to get to what we are considering 1” lower
Note: The ITS has no relation to these measurements.
Toby tried the 1” spacer on your set up with only a 4 blade to test and it showed zero improvement anywhere.
Let me know,
Dave
Interesting. If I measured my X dimesion correctly, it was IMHO high @ 19"s. The way I do this is driveshaft to pad bottom vertically (not along the transom angle). I haven't taken this measurement, but I suspect it's closer to 6 7/8"s. I'll let you know.
BTW, look at my tabs. I would have mounted them closer to the chines, had I rigged the boat. They can't retract very far because of the hydraulic steering mounts, and mounted in this close to the drive may be dragging somewhat. What do you think? I always understood that the further out they are mounted, the more leverage and less drag they have when deployed.
Were your tabs mounted likt this?
Regards,
Steve
Last edited by Steve Zuckerman; 11-10-2005 at 09:26 PM.
11-10-2005, 10:44 PM
#19
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Re: I'm a believer!
Steve,
Not sure about the tabs??? Never had or felt the need on the Heat. I have K planes on the Flame now and am still learning how to use them
I do agree with your logic though.
Dave
Not sure about the tabs??? Never had or felt the need on the Heat. I have K planes on the Flame now and am still learning how to use them
I do agree with your logic though.
Dave
11-12-2005, 07:07 AM
#20
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Re: I'm a believer!
My boat does not have tabs either. I don't think they are necessary on the heat, but while running on Lake Michigan they would definately be a plus. I am really impressed how this boats rides in 2-4 ft without tabs, it really carries the bow nicely and does not want to go airborne straight up. I think tabs would be nice to keep the boat level in cross winds etc.
