Nordic Heat - 600sci motor upgrades
#16
Chris
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Thanks guys,
Here is a re-do of my prop/spacer testing.
I am going to start taking spacer out of my drive in order to try to control the chine walk. I am having to trim out to just above 3/4 in order to get the high speeds. I am thinking about trying no spacer at first, and giving the Hering 27 another try. Should both increase slip, and hopefully help with the chine walking.
If not, then trim tabs are in order.
Any thoughts?
Chris
Here is a re-do of my prop/spacer testing.
I am going to start taking spacer out of my drive in order to try to control the chine walk. I am having to trim out to just above 3/4 in order to get the high speeds. I am thinking about trying no spacer at first, and giving the Hering 27 another try. Should both increase slip, and hopefully help with the chine walking.
If not, then trim tabs are in order.
Any thoughts?
Chris
#17
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Location: Dallas Ga
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I dont understand how the 30 labbed turned less rpm then the 30 stock. I think a 32 labbed properly would be the ticket. Call Brett at Bblades he is the man. Bronson Hill also does a great job. They made the fastest prop for my old setup, it was a bravo 1 30 labbed I ran 87.8 on the limiter 5400
#18
Chris
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John,
I will give bret a call. Thanks for the info.
I was wondering about the prop thing also with the 30 lab.
It was the first prop I tried, and maybe I didn't trim it up as much.
I will have to give it another shot.
I never thought about it before, but now I can chase down some of the slower cats.![Evil](/forums/images/smilies/evilB.gif)
In my 12 passenger, open bow, inner-tubing boat, with the mid-cabin, hide-away bed, and the kitchen sink.
HA ! ... Makes me chuckle!
Talk about a "do-it-all" boat, I love this thing!
Its not perfact... but it is getting close.
Chris
I will give bret a call. Thanks for the info.
I was wondering about the prop thing also with the 30 lab.
It was the first prop I tried, and maybe I didn't trim it up as much.
I will have to give it another shot.
I never thought about it before, but now I can chase down some of the slower cats.
![Evil](/forums/images/smilies/evilB.gif)
In my 12 passenger, open bow, inner-tubing boat, with the mid-cabin, hide-away bed, and the kitchen sink.
HA ! ... Makes me chuckle!
Talk about a "do-it-all" boat, I love this thing!
Its not perfact... but it is getting close.
Chris
Last edited by CB-BLR; 02-22-2009 at 11:46 PM.
#20
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Chris,
You should be able to run higher (less spacer depth) with the 5 blades. My boat runs well with a P5 with no spacer, still has good lift an acelleration. I never could get any Bravo to work without a 1" spacer, regardless of modifications. Since the P5 blade doesn't seem to mind the extra 1" of depth, I just left the spacer in so I could still run Bravos. They are much more plentiful and inexpensive.
Running higher should reduce your chinewalking too. A deeply submerged prop and gearcase tend to throw the boat around at high speed. You also mentioned you are trimming a lot to obtain those last few MPH. Your prop will semi-surface better higher (more RPM). Your boat should be more driveable when the prop shaft is parrallel to the pad, to 1 to 3 degrees positive trim at max speed.
Regards,
Steve
You should be able to run higher (less spacer depth) with the 5 blades. My boat runs well with a P5 with no spacer, still has good lift an acelleration. I never could get any Bravo to work without a 1" spacer, regardless of modifications. Since the P5 blade doesn't seem to mind the extra 1" of depth, I just left the spacer in so I could still run Bravos. They are much more plentiful and inexpensive.
Running higher should reduce your chinewalking too. A deeply submerged prop and gearcase tend to throw the boat around at high speed. You also mentioned you are trimming a lot to obtain those last few MPH. Your prop will semi-surface better higher (more RPM). Your boat should be more driveable when the prop shaft is parrallel to the pad, to 1 to 3 degrees positive trim at max speed.
Regards,
Steve