DO NOT start your boating season off like this.
05-03-2005, 08:46 AM
#21
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Re: DO NOT start your boating season off like this.
Originally Posted by Doug
It has oil thermostats but I have really never seen the temp come up to 140 deg. Both stats are coming off and being sent to Mocal to be bench tested and checked out.
The oil story is a little more involved. I can't put my finger on it but from time to time over 5300rpm the oil pressure would start to surge from 90psi and go as low as 40 psi. Normal is around 90 cold and at High rpm. As soon as I back off it stops. With the external oil pumps I thought the S/S line from the pan to the pumps was soft and being sucked shut so I replaced them. It help for a while and then started again. One time one motor would do it then maybe the next time out the other would start. I am stripping the oil system off the boat and we are going to dyno the motor exactly like it plummed up in the boat. I'm not sure why they have the oil pressure so high but would like to see it cut back. When I bought the boat is was actually over 100 psi and I have backed the adjustment out so one is running 85 and the other is 90. I need to order different springs.
Any ideas on the pressure surge ?
The oil story is a little more involved. I can't put my finger on it but from time to time over 5300rpm the oil pressure would start to surge from 90psi and go as low as 40 psi. Normal is around 90 cold and at High rpm. As soon as I back off it stops. With the external oil pumps I thought the S/S line from the pan to the pumps was soft and being sucked shut so I replaced them. It help for a while and then started again. One time one motor would do it then maybe the next time out the other would start. I am stripping the oil system off the boat and we are going to dyno the motor exactly like it plummed up in the boat. I'm not sure why they have the oil pressure so high but would like to see it cut back. When I bought the boat is was actually over 100 psi and I have backed the adjustment out so one is running 85 and the other is 90. I need to order different springs.
Any ideas on the pressure surge ?
05-04-2005, 12:42 AM
#22
(aka) Pure Adrenaline
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Re: DO NOT start your boating season off like this.
That was one idea I was going to check out. The pan at the full mark holds 12 quarts and the line out is in the very bottom. I think while off maybe 1-2 drain back in from the lines. So while running I would hope it wouldn't pump 10 quarts up top. I put all new lines on that motor so if it did it again I was going to shut it down and add a couple more quarts to try that theory. I just never got that far. Thanks Roger, We need an update on you boat. Now that the weather is a little better you should be knocking it out. Can't wait to see it. I love that paint scheme. Think I have seen that before.
05-04-2005, 12:35 PM
#24
(aka) Pure Adrenaline
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Re: DO NOT start your boating season off like this.
Castrol SAE-40. Dave did suggest a multi grade 20-50. I took the motors up to be dynod with fresh 40w and was going to change over after the first run on the boat. I heard somewhere about the synthetic oils letting the hydraulic rollers slide on the cam shafts instead of turn because it was so slick wearing out shaft. Has anyone else heard that ?
05-04-2005, 01:31 PM
#25
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Re: DO NOT start your boating season off like this.
Sorry about your bad luck Doug. According to the Reher-Morrison web site, a broken rod is almost always because of lack of oil. The rod welds itself to the crank instantly and snaps around. Low oil temp and 40 wt. could be the cause. A 15w-50 synthetic flows easier at low temps and offers more protection when hot. Hope you get it back together for Smoke, we're going for sure.
05-04-2005, 03:24 PM
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Re: DO NOT start your boating season off like this.
Originally Posted by Doug
Mark, wet sump, external pump. All #12 S/S lines. Like I said both motors did it last year. Definitely a restriction somewhere.
I`m kinda` with Ian on the low temp and 40 weight oil though. All except for that surging part. That`s what makes me think that your pumping it dry.
I hope you can get it fixed fast.
05-05-2005, 07:02 AM
#28
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Re: DO NOT start your boating season off like this.
1. The oil pans with the windage trays stop the oil from sloshing around and also stop the flow of cold paisty oil. I would run Mobile 1 20W-50 which will flow thin espically in cold water such as Lake Michigan until July and still has the viscosity of a sae 50 weight oil
2. Inregards to slipping roller cams; I feel cams are cheaper than cranks and rods. My heads are inspected every year for wear and spring tension. Its cheap insurance. I would ask Dave about synthetic oils.
2. Inregards to slipping roller cams; I feel cams are cheaper than cranks and rods. My heads are inspected every year for wear and spring tension. Its cheap insurance. I would ask Dave about synthetic oils.
05-05-2005, 08:24 AM
#29
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Re: DO NOT start your boating season off like this.
With the cold air temps and with the cold water running through the oil coolers. I`ll bet that 40 weight oil was`nt in any hurry to get back to the pan.
05-31-2005, 02:03 AM
#30
(aka) Pure Adrenaline
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Re: DO NOT start your boating season off like this.
A little up date. I pulled the other motor and Dave checked it out last week and everything looks perfect in that one. Probably pick it up Thursday and put it right in and get it all hooked up.
Rods and pistons are in, crank will be in any day and I think his machine shop has the 3 sleeves installed. Just need to check the valves and do a valve job. I sent the thermostats to Florida and had all new internal parts put in. He is going to hook them up and the oil cooler and all my #12 lines just how they are in the boat when it is on the dyno. Changing the mechanical oil pressure gage from the oil filter housing to the front of the block. There is a plug to the oil valley above the timing chain cover. 20-50w oil and probably go synthetic after break in.
Might be wishful thinking but might be on the dyno in about 2-3 weeks.
Still can't put are finger on the problem.
Rods and pistons are in, crank will be in any day and I think his machine shop has the 3 sleeves installed. Just need to check the valves and do a valve job. I sent the thermostats to Florida and had all new internal parts put in. He is going to hook them up and the oil cooler and all my #12 lines just how they are in the boat when it is on the dyno. Changing the mechanical oil pressure gage from the oil filter housing to the front of the block. There is a plug to the oil valley above the timing chain cover. 20-50w oil and probably go synthetic after break in.
Might be wishful thinking but might be on the dyno in about 2-3 weeks.
Still can't put are finger on the problem.
