throttling when airborne
09-11-2008, 10:55 PM
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throttling when airborne
I have a 24 with the 330/merc/trs setup and I have a question on throttling when you are airborne.
I usually have the gf in the boat when I take it out so it is a rare occasion that I get the boat out of the water. Sometimes it just happens or I see that I'll be hitting one just right so she deals with it. I guess I have a couple questions,
-If I were to hit one or two and not back off the throttles is it going to kill the trans?
-when you do throttle off how far do you bring the stick back? if you are crusing at 4k do you just pull it back enough to stay around 4k or do you go further?
-right now I am running a 24p bravo 1 I also have a 23p cleaver. I like the way the b1 feels but I know the cleaver has a bit more slip def during a hole shot. I was thinking if it was going to be rough I would use the cleaver, my thoughts being the slip has got to help the trans when re-entering the water. am I thinking along the right lines?
-I know that many dislike the merctrans but so far I have had no problems(after rebuilding due to water in the fluid) and love the way the thing shifts but, i am looking at doing some mods to freshen up the motor a bit. any rule of thumb on where these trans on these boats start to be unreliable for everyday cruising?
I usually have the gf in the boat when I take it out so it is a rare occasion that I get the boat out of the water. Sometimes it just happens or I see that I'll be hitting one just right so she deals with it. I guess I have a couple questions,
-If I were to hit one or two and not back off the throttles is it going to kill the trans?
-when you do throttle off how far do you bring the stick back? if you are crusing at 4k do you just pull it back enough to stay around 4k or do you go further?
-right now I am running a 24p bravo 1 I also have a 23p cleaver. I like the way the b1 feels but I know the cleaver has a bit more slip def during a hole shot. I was thinking if it was going to be rough I would use the cleaver, my thoughts being the slip has got to help the trans when re-entering the water. am I thinking along the right lines?
-I know that many dislike the merctrans but so far I have had no problems(after rebuilding due to water in the fluid) and love the way the thing shifts but, i am looking at doing some mods to freshen up the motor a bit. any rule of thumb on where these trans on these boats start to be unreliable for everyday cruising?
09-12-2008, 06:51 AM
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Watch the throttling. Click on the HIGH QUALITY link below the speaker mute/volume icon
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kJghC8mFll0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kJghC8mFll0
Last edited by VelocityRick; 09-12-2008 at 06:53 AM.
09-12-2008, 08:52 AM
#3
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Back off some then roll back in to it don't jam it full too quickly. The biggest problem with the merctrans is the hollow internal spline driveshaft yoke just ahead of the U-Joint, it is thin and can break. Inspect it carefully every time you have the drive off. The other problem with the merctrans is that because it does not shift as fast as a Borg Warner or mechanical trans people tend to get into the throttle before it has fully engaged and therefore the life is shortened dramatically, good technique and patience will help a lot. Set up the idle to merc specs I think under 800 neutral and 650-700 in gear and you will be fine. As far as motor mods pretty much as long as you can idle low enough you would be fine with any 454 and most 502's without blowers. If you can find a Mirage plus 23 try it, They work very well all around with the TRS's longer setback and 1" deeper drive depth. Enjoy this one too http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AcpTpgBek48
Last edited by IRONMAN; 09-12-2008 at 08:53 AM. Reason: cut some
09-12-2008, 10:09 AM
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The goal in throttling a boat is:
1) Not over rev the engine
2) Take the load off of the drive train upon re-entry
With this in mind you will have to practice to get a feel and ear for it.
Remember if your too early getting off the throttle leaving you will loose momentum and slam into the next wave. And if you are too late you will over rev the engine.
On re-entry you want to be rolling back into the throttle as the prop touches the water. The evens the load on the drive train and helps you maintain your forward momentum.
This all works well when you have the boat trimmed right. If you are trimmed too high you will be working harder than you need to. If your trimmed to deep you will plow wave to wave. It's an art. Some people get it and some people never get it.
Good luck..... It just comes with seat time.
1) Not over rev the engine
2) Take the load off of the drive train upon re-entry
With this in mind you will have to practice to get a feel and ear for it.
Remember if your too early getting off the throttle leaving you will loose momentum and slam into the next wave. And if you are too late you will over rev the engine.
On re-entry you want to be rolling back into the throttle as the prop touches the water. The evens the load on the drive train and helps you maintain your forward momentum.
This all works well when you have the boat trimmed right. If you are trimmed too high you will be working harder than you need to. If your trimmed to deep you will plow wave to wave. It's an art. Some people get it and some people never get it.
Good luck..... It just comes with seat time.
Last edited by CIG3; 09-12-2008 at 10:12 AM.
09-12-2008, 10:09 AM
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Back off some then roll back in to it don't jam it full too quickly. The biggest problem with the merctrans is the hollow internal spline driveshaft yoke just ahead of the U-Joint, it is thin and can break. Inspect it carefully every time you have the drive off. The other problem with the merctrans is that because it does not shift as fast as a Borg Warner or mechanical trans people tend to get into the throttle before it has fully engaged and therefore the life is shortened dramatically, good technique and patience will help a lot. Set up the idle to merc specs I think under 800 neutral and 650-700 in gear and you will be fine. As far as motor mods pretty much as long as you can idle low enough you would be fine with any 454 and most 502's without blowers. If you can find a Mirage plus 23 try it, They work very well all around with the TRS's longer setback and 1" deeper drive depth. Enjoy this one too http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AcpTpgBek48
09-13-2008, 09:06 PM
#6
The goal in throttling a boat is:
1) Not over rev the engine
2) Take the load off of the drive train upon re-entry
With this in mind you will have to practice to get a feel and ear for it.
Remember if your too early getting off the throttle leaving you will loose momentum and slam into the next wave. And if you are too late you will over rev the engine.
On re-entry you want to be rolling back into the throttle as the prop touches the water. The evens the load on the drive train and helps you maintain your forward momentum.
This all works well when you have the boat trimmed right. If you are trimmed too high you will be working harder than you need to. If your trimmed to deep you will plow wave to wave. It's an art. Some people get it and some people never get it.
Good luck..... It just comes with seat time.
1) Not over rev the engine
2) Take the load off of the drive train upon re-entry
With this in mind you will have to practice to get a feel and ear for it.
Remember if your too early getting off the throttle leaving you will loose momentum and slam into the next wave. And if you are too late you will over rev the engine.
On re-entry you want to be rolling back into the throttle as the prop touches the water. The evens the load on the drive train and helps you maintain your forward momentum.
This all works well when you have the boat trimmed right. If you are trimmed too high you will be working harder than you need to. If your trimmed to deep you will plow wave to wave. It's an art. Some people get it and some people never get it.
Good luck..... It just comes with seat time.
09-15-2008, 03:24 PM
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As a throttle man myself, I can say that I got a few tips years ago from Jo himself, whom I think is the best in the game. It takes time to nail it every time. Once confidant you will notice that it is all in the feal of air to land movement. It doesnt matter wether you are on a 24 or a 28 once perfected you will throttle anything with ease. And as far as throttles is concern, you also have to be controlling the tabs and drives to get the right attitude in the boat itself.
09-16-2008, 02:43 PM
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ahh, "the art of throttling"....and it is an art....you will not master it quickly, it takes seat time and every boat is different and it is different in the various kinds of seas we experience....but realistically, once you "get it", you can throttle literally with your eyes closed, and simply by feel....but only as far as leaving and re-entering the water....you also need to read the water ahead of you to know where your boat is and, more importantly, where it is going to be.........it is a thrill for sure........
but, when in a race......don't let Albert fool ya, his throttling under race conditions is as follow:
once boat properly trimmed - 6,500 rpm
coming up on a wave - 6,500 rpm
leaving wave and going airborn - 6,499 rpm
re-entry in water - 6,500 rpm
........and that's how we win races..................
but, when in a race......don't let Albert fool ya, his throttling under race conditions is as follow:
once boat properly trimmed - 6,500 rpm
coming up on a wave - 6,500 rpm
leaving wave and going airborn - 6,499 rpm
re-entry in water - 6,500 rpm
........and that's how we win races..................
09-16-2008, 03:19 PM
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but, when in a race......don't let Albert fool ya, his throttling under race conditions is as follow:
once boat properly trimmed - 6,500 rpm
coming up on a wave - 6,500 rpm
leaving wave and going airborn - 6,499 rpm
re-entry in water - 6,500 rpm
........and that's how we win races..................
once boat properly trimmed - 6,500 rpm
coming up on a wave - 6,500 rpm
leaving wave and going airborn - 6,499 rpm
re-entry in water - 6,500 rpm
........and that's how we win races..................
09-17-2008, 08:06 AM
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ahh, "the art of throttling"....and it is an art....you will not master it quickly, it takes seat time and every boat is different and it is different in the various kinds of seas we experience....but realistically, once you "get it", you can throttle literally with your eyes closed, and simply by feel....but only as far as leaving and re-entering the water....you also need to read the water ahead of you to know where your boat is and, more importantly, where it is going to be.........it is a thrill for sure........
but, when in a race......don't let Albert fool ya, his throttling under race conditions is as follow:
once boat properly trimmed - 6,500 rpm
coming up on a wave - 6,500 rpm
leaving wave and going airborn - 6,499 rpm
re-entry in water - 6,500 rpm
........and that's how we win races..................
but, when in a race......don't let Albert fool ya, his throttling under race conditions is as follow:
once boat properly trimmed - 6,500 rpm
coming up on a wave - 6,500 rpm
leaving wave and going airborn - 6,499 rpm
re-entry in water - 6,500 rpm
........and that's how we win races..................
