290 Chine Walk....again
#1
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290 Chine Walk....again
I know this has been done to death but I am still looking around for answers on the 290 and the chine walk issue. I was wondering if maybe the twin big blocks were the problem but they sold later 290's with the LS package (correct?) and also made a few with a single engine so I'm thinking weight is not the issue?
I have been told that the turned down chine at the very rear was it however at WOT I don't think they are even in the water and beyond that I don't see how they "introduce" chine walk. If they do, then why did they keep on building the boat with them? I thought they were there to help an "underpowered" boat get on plane faster.
My latest thought was making the bottom most inner strakes reach farther back towards the transom. They terminate quite a ways up. I know it may take away from the rough water ride but in my mind it would give the boat more stability. You'd think there could be a balance in ride and stability. Maybe this idea doesn't work at all?
I was asking about props in a different post about switching to a 5 blade instead of 4 blade to help further reduce chine walk because going from the 3 blade to 4 blade made a huge difference. Someone that owned a 270 said he installed IMCO shorty drives that were 2" shorter and it took care of his problem.
Should I assume that PQ looked into all of the options to settle the boat before deciding on a new hull that is only 1 foot longer and cost twice as much? I don't plan on going 100 mph in mine but the low to mid 70's without fear of being thrown out of the boat doesn't seem like a lot to ask. I think the last time I saw them for sale the add was for 70 mph for 70k. Maybe that was with the 6.2's?
Anyway, still looking for answers and idea's. Thanks
I have been told that the turned down chine at the very rear was it however at WOT I don't think they are even in the water and beyond that I don't see how they "introduce" chine walk. If they do, then why did they keep on building the boat with them? I thought they were there to help an "underpowered" boat get on plane faster.
My latest thought was making the bottom most inner strakes reach farther back towards the transom. They terminate quite a ways up. I know it may take away from the rough water ride but in my mind it would give the boat more stability. You'd think there could be a balance in ride and stability. Maybe this idea doesn't work at all?
I was asking about props in a different post about switching to a 5 blade instead of 4 blade to help further reduce chine walk because going from the 3 blade to 4 blade made a huge difference. Someone that owned a 270 said he installed IMCO shorty drives that were 2" shorter and it took care of his problem.
Should I assume that PQ looked into all of the options to settle the boat before deciding on a new hull that is only 1 foot longer and cost twice as much? I don't plan on going 100 mph in mine but the low to mid 70's without fear of being thrown out of the boat doesn't seem like a lot to ask. I think the last time I saw them for sale the add was for 70 mph for 70k. Maybe that was with the 6.2's?
Anyway, still looking for answers and idea's. Thanks
#2
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Older bajas had similar chine walk, shorty lowers solved it on them also. The drives are too deep and have too much leverage over the hull is my thought.
#3
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I know this has been done to death but I am still looking around for answers on the 290 and the chine walk issue. I was wondering if maybe the twin big blocks were the problem but they sold later 290's with the LS package (correct?) and also made a few with a single engine so I'm thinking weight is not the issue?
I have been told that the turned down chine at the very rear was it however at WOT I don't think they are even in the water and beyond that I don't see how they "introduce" chine walk. If they do, then why did they keep on building the boat with them? I thought they were there to help an "underpowered" boat get on plane faster.
My latest thought was making the bottom most inner strakes reach farther back towards the transom. They terminate quite a ways up. I know it may take away from the rough water ride but in my mind it would give the boat more stability. You'd think there could be a balance in ride and stability. Maybe this idea doesn't work at all?
I was asking about props in a different post about switching to a 5 blade instead of 4 blade to help further reduce chine walk because going from the 3 blade to 4 blade made a huge difference. Someone that owned a 270 said he installed IMCO shorty drives that were 2" shorter and it took care of his problem.
Should I assume that PQ looked into all of the options to settle the boat before deciding on a new hull that is only 1 foot longer and cost twice as much? I don't plan on going 100 mph in mine but the low to mid 70's without fear of being thrown out of the boat doesn't seem like a lot to ask. I think the last time I saw them for sale the add was for 70 mph for 70k. Maybe that was with the 6.2's?
Anyway, still looking for answers and idea's. Thanks
I have been told that the turned down chine at the very rear was it however at WOT I don't think they are even in the water and beyond that I don't see how they "introduce" chine walk. If they do, then why did they keep on building the boat with them? I thought they were there to help an "underpowered" boat get on plane faster.
My latest thought was making the bottom most inner strakes reach farther back towards the transom. They terminate quite a ways up. I know it may take away from the rough water ride but in my mind it would give the boat more stability. You'd think there could be a balance in ride and stability. Maybe this idea doesn't work at all?
I was asking about props in a different post about switching to a 5 blade instead of 4 blade to help further reduce chine walk because going from the 3 blade to 4 blade made a huge difference. Someone that owned a 270 said he installed IMCO shorty drives that were 2" shorter and it took care of his problem.
Should I assume that PQ looked into all of the options to settle the boat before deciding on a new hull that is only 1 foot longer and cost twice as much? I don't plan on going 100 mph in mine but the low to mid 70's without fear of being thrown out of the boat doesn't seem like a lot to ask. I think the last time I saw them for sale the add was for 70 mph for 70k. Maybe that was with the 6.2's?
Anyway, still looking for answers and idea's. Thanks
#4
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#5
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Interesting that if that indeed is the problem why wouldn't PQ look into that? Actually could have been great marketing to offer a more "performance" drive. Also waaaaay cheaper than the direction they took killing the 290 altogether.
#6
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#8
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I've owned 3 and I have quite a few hours of R/D in this issue (also discussed with numerous PQ employees )lol
and like I replied at all the other threads " it is what it is " you will not be able to get the chine walk out of that boat, at times you will think you fixed it and next time you drive it just right and it will chime walk,
of also owned a couple of 300s and it's a totally different boat/hull not just a foot longer
and like I replied at all the other threads " it is what it is " you will not be able to get the chine walk out of that boat, at times you will think you fixed it and next time you drive it just right and it will chime walk,
of also owned a couple of 300s and it's a totally different boat/hull not just a foot longer
#9
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The best I ever ran with the 25" 3-blade props was 63 mph on GPS. So mine's a 95. I looked at a 99 down the street and noticed that PQ changed to a 3 stringer system instead of the 4 stringers mine has. Is it possible that they made other subtle changes to the hull? What are your thoughts on my idea of adding a foot or so to the bottom lifting strakes? Also, I don't plan on doing anything with the turned down chine at the rear. Was just pointing out that someone thought that was the reason for the chine walk. It rides great now but that is only at 60mph. I'll have to see how it handles this upcoming season with the new power and go from there. I already have the full hydraulic steering and not sure about the larger tabs. Maybe. There was a guy on here claiming wild speeds and no tabs at all. Thanks for all of your input.
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So the 70 for 70 was the 6.2's